My miter saw will easily cut square, but I've never had problems getting PVC pipe, up to 16" in diameter, full sticks. If a subdivision is going in, talk to the contractor laying the sewer pipe.
From: Jim Lux <jimlux@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2015 11:50 PM
Subject: Re: [TCML] Dual identical FRANCE neon sign transformers (15000v 60mA each) in parallel
On 2/22/15 8:39 PM, Yurtle Turtle via Tesla wrote:
> I would have tried to butt-splice the two pieces, assuming it's thicker walled sewer pipe (green). They'd have to be cut fairly accurately. Gary's way sounds good too. Probably use a heat gun to get the extension to fit well, then roughen up and hope Bondo sticks.If not, fiberglass resin will probably work, to make a smooth connection. I chose to make my 10" secondary stationary, and moved my primary up and down to get good coupling, then cut PVC supports to make them permanent.
> My secondary goes all the way to the bottom of my primary so it's stable while moving. 7' tall, which just clears my garage door with toploads on.
Someone else wrote..
>
> I think that the idea of splicing the 6" pipe is very plausible, though I
> don't think I've ever heard of it being done. You'll want to take a 1-2"
> length of the pipe, and cut out a gap in the circumference so that you can
> squeeze the smaller circumference into the interior of the two lengths that
> you're splicing, and glue it with PVC cement.
I would call around to plumbing supply places (here in Southern Cal,
it's places like Smiths Pipe) and ask about getting a 4-5 foot long
piece of SDR35 (thinner wall.. it's sewer pipe as opposed to SCH 40
which holds pressure)
Tell them you're willing to call back if they don't have a scrap, etc.
I have done a fair amount of trying to glue and splice, and if nothing
else were available, I might try again, but it's really hard. For one
thing, it's really hard to get a very square cut on the end of the pipe,
unless you have a suitable fixture or tools. So then when you butt the
two pieces together, it has gaps, etc.
This is true whether you use a straight butt join (you could use a hot
air plastic welder) or the "smaller tube inside" approach (use a piece
of the same pipe with a lengthwise slot cut down, squeeze it to slightly
smaller diameter and shove it in and let it spring out.
BUT.. I'd spend some serious time calling around looking for a scrap.
You could also look for larger landscaping companies: they use the stuff
for drain lines and the like, and might have a scrap they'd sell/give you.
Cardboard tubes used for concrete forms are also another source: keep
'em dry and varnish/polyurethane it to keep it dry.
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