I would have tried to butt-splice the two pieces, assuming it's thicker walled sewer pipe (green). They'd have to be cut fairly accurately. Gary's way sounds good too. Probably use a heat gun to get the extension to fit well, then roughen up and hope Bondo sticks.If not, fiberglass resin will probably work, to make a smooth connection. I chose to make my 10" secondary stationary, and moved my primary up and down to get good coupling, then cut PVC supports to make them permanent.
My secondary goes all the way to the bottom of my primary so it's stable while moving. 7' tall, which just clears my garage door with toploads on.
From: Gary Lau <glau1024@xxxxxxxxx>
To: Tesla Coil Mailing List <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2015 10:05 PM
Subject: Re: [TCML] Dual identical FRANCE neon sign transformers (15000v 60mA each) in parallel
Hi Tim,
Comments interspersed:
On Sun, Feb 22, 2015 at 7:43 PM, Timothy Gilmore <tdg8934@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Thanks for the info Dave!
>
> So if I have only 24" long 6" diameter PVC pipe to work with, I keep
> reading that you need 2-3" on both ends of the pipe that I wont have then.
>
I've never heard that. I have 1" at the bottom end and 1.5" at the top
end, but in practice you'll want to be able to vary both the bottom
distance to get the coupling right, and the top distance to maybe have a
smaller corona shield toroid, followed by the main top load above that, to
maximize the distance from the arcing point to the primary.
>
> I'm assuming for the bottom end of he secondary pipe I would need to raise
> it up 2-3" with a wooden block or other material BUT I am using 1" high
> HDPE 12" long strips to hold the 50' of 1/4" refrigerator tubing, I would
> assume I wouldn't have to raise the secondary only 1" then to make it even
> with the 1" high HDPE strips. If it is raised only 1" I was thinking of
> using PVC cement to attach it to the 1" high wooden block. I would then
> attach the wooden block to the base with L brackets (non metal if I can
> find them - but don't think it would matter).
>
I would only say don't glue anything that would make the spacing
permanent. You're always going to want to tweak and experiment.
>
> At the top of the 24" secondary (assuming almost the entire 24" length is
> wire wound - or 23 to 23.5"), I would make it only about 23.5" and save the
> last 0.5 inch to attach some way a torroid. BTW: is a large sphere any
> better than a large torroid on this 6" diameter (24 " tall pipe) wound 23
> or 23.5" of 26 gauge wire?
>
> I would like to use what I have already purchased but if I absolutely have
> to have a longer 6" diameter, I think Menards has 10' lengths I saw online
> but another expense for just being a few inches short with what I have at
> 24" already.
>
> Another idea - since Lowes sells the 24" (6" diameter) pipe. what about
> buying another 24" (6" diameter) pipe and using PVC cement them together
> for 48" (6" diameter) and use a hacksaw to saw it down to maybe 30" or so,
> Does that sound reasonable?
>
I think that the idea of splicing the 6" pipe is very plausible, though I
don't think I've ever heard of it being done. You'll want to take a 1-2"
length of the pipe, and cut out a gap in the circumference so that you can
squeeze the smaller circumference into the interior of the two lengths that
you're splicing, and glue it with PVC cement.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Tim
> <snip>
>
Regards, Gary Lau
MA, USA
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