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Re: [TCML] Wraping gto wire



My plan was to run it on driveway or in garage depending on how long the streamers are.  I have a antenna ground rod within 6ft either place.


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-------- Original message --------
From: Jim Lux <jimlux@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> 
Date: 11/05/2014  05:45  (GMT-06:00) 
To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx 
Subject: Re: [TCML] Wraping gto wire 
 
On 11/5/14, 2:39 AM, John Cooper wrote:
> Yeah I have to cut my copper tubing and just bring the gto wire up to
> it instead.  Easier than redrilling and inserting bushing of some
> sort.  The grounding wires ( bottom secondary, nst ground, strike
> rail) that goto the ground rod I'm planning on using #8 thhn I had or
> does that have to be gto wire too?
>
>

Bare wire would be ok.


#8 is massively overkill.  You're not carrying the kind of current that 
would need that large a conductor.

As is a ground rod, really.

You want the RF current and "strike current" from sparks to return 
easily to the base of the coil, so the optimum strategy in general is to 
have a large conductive plane or counterpoise directly under the coil.

Think of this plane as forming "the other plate" with the topload 
capacitance.  And, it's a place where sparks that terminate at the 
ground (or near) will touch, rather than somewhere else.

Large in this case would be a radius comparable to the height of the 
topload above it.  So if you have a table top coil that's 3' high (from 
tabletop to top of secondary toroid) then a 6 foot diameter sheet would 
be adequate. It can be solid, or chicken wire, or hardware cloth, or 
radial wires or anything, as long as it's low resistance.  If your coil 
stands 6 feet high, then a 12 foot diameter circle, etc.


That counterpoise should be connected to the electrical safety ground 
(greenwire ground) so that if you touch it, you don't get a shock, 
especially if some primary HV or line voltage carrying conductor touches 
it. In particular, if a spark from the secondary happens to touch both 
the counterpoise AND the HV on the primary, you've now got a fairly low 
impedance path to carry line frequency current to the counterpoise.

If you're running your coil outdoors, then, sure, connecting to earth 
ground as a counterpoise, directly under the coil, works.  And if it's a 
shortish run (a few feet) for positioning convenience, that's great too.

However, running a 100 foot ground wire from coil to ground rod/stake 
doesn't do you a lot of good.  And may actually aggravate RFI problems 
by forming an antenna that radiates the energy from the coil

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