I wonder if a heat gun might be able to release the pads from the board?
Or
if you have just a few localized problem areas (around HV leads), you
could
use the soldering iron to heat up the pad until it falls off.
I found the pads usually fall off pretty easy if you solder to them as
intended more than one time (they are pretty much junk). Of course i
still
use them for cheap prototype stuff :-).
I personally would just drill out a piece of PE, lexan, or acrylic and
make
my own board.
Steve
On Mon, May 3, 2010 at 8:28 AM, Brandon Hendershot <
brandonhendershot@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Agreed. I tried making an MMC with perf board with the "copper pads".
There
were sparks running all over the board with my 15/30 only dialed in at
about
50-60 volts. I just got a piece of plexi and drilled my own holes. It's
cheaper than a big piece of perf board, and it looks really nice.
Brandon
On May 3, 2010, at 6:08 AM, "Gary Lau" <glau1024@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
I agree with Dan, using the board with the copper pads increases the
likelihood of arcing between pads, particularly in the area of the
MOV's.
You might be able to salvage your board by taking a large diameter drill
bit
and removing the pads (both sides) BY HAND in the area of the MOV's, and
any
other smallish components. Then drill out the copper barrel with a bit
just
larger than the hole diameter.
Regards, Gary Lau
MA, USA
-----Original Message-----
From: tesla-bounces@xxxxxxxxxx [mailto:tesla-bounces@xxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of Wm A Tickhill
Sent: Monday, May 03, 2010 6:43 AM
To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [TCML] Terry Filter Perf Board
Dear Gadget Guru's
After Completing My First Basic Coil ( 9k/30 ), I Have Started Building
A
BIGGER More Involved ( 15/60 ) Coil.
While Assembling My Terry Filter It Occurred To Me That The Perfboard I
Used ( the kind with little copper pads at each hole ) Might Have Been
A
Mistake. Will The Little Copper Pads Arc Across Like So Many Little
Spark
Gaps?
Any Guidance Is Welcome.
Thanks, Hairball :)
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