Time to eat some words.
I tried various amateurish ways to couple the thermocouple to the halogen
lamp. The kapton tape made a drippy stinky mess as soon as the bulb got
maybe 30% power. I tried pressing the thermocouple to the bulb with a
spring, and put a layer of fiberglass drapery between the spring and
thermocouple. The drapery pigments smoked and made a mess. Perhaps some
better quality fiberglass may have worked better, but when I was using the
kapton tape, the time to reach equilibrium seemed excessive - several
minutes, and given that I'll be taking data on MANY data points, I'm just
not that patient. So I'll be using a photocell and Ohmmeter. Maybe I can
just throw a cap across it if there are fluctuations. At the power levels
(~50%) I was trying just now with simple line AC, the brilliance of the
halogen lamp swamped any room illumination, so shielding probably is not an
issue.
On Thu, Jul 29, 2010 at 10:14 AM, Gary Lau <glau1024@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
I'm gathering materials and plans to perform this experiment - determining
the cap size that will extract maximum power from an NST, at 120 and 140VAC
input. The power indication will be via monitoring the surface temperature
of the halogen lamp dummy load that replaces the primary coil. I plan to
test a 15/60 NST, and two 15/30 NST's, all unmodified.
I'm having a hard time figuring out how to fasten a thermocouple to the
quartz lamp tube. I want the connection to be robust, as there will be
considerable thrash as I change NST's and cap sizes, and I don't want
lamp/thermocouple coupling to vary.
<snip>
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