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Re: [TCML] MMC pics
Bart,
Yeah that does suck, but I'd rather take advice from a veteran than
risk destroying the MMC. How do I unsolder the leads? Also, with all
this soldering and unsoldering, am I damaging the caps and resistors?
I know that resistors are pretty sensitive to heat, but what about
caps? I don't want to destroy anything.
I also don't want to buy another perf board. I'm running low on funds.
Radio shack didn't have anyones that were long enough for me anyways.
I have some scrap wood lying around and some spray acrylic polyurethane
sealer. Could I seal the wood and mount the caps on that? I've heard
that wood is lossy, so that's why I didn't use it in the first place.
If wood doesn't work, do you have any suggestions as to where I could
locally buy a long perf board (Indianapolis)? I don't want to order
one online because 1) Low Funds and 2) I don't like waiting.
By the way, does it matter what kind of solder I use? I used some lead
based PC resin core solder.
I know that's a lot of questions, but I feel like I'm kind of stumbling
here. Thanks for your guidance.
Nicholas Goble
On 7/11/08 8:51 PM, "bartb" <bartb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Nicholas,
>
> Big problems. The solder side series string is being staggered in
> sections of 3 on a square perf board. Your leads are far too close
> together between "most" sections. If you fire it up like this, your
> going to get arcing between the sections. Think of this: If you have
12
> caps in series and say 12kV across the cap bank, then there will be
3kV
> across each 3 cap section in your circuit. Another 3kV on the next
> section, etc. The area with the bottom red and green circles will have
> 6kV across those 2 very near leads. However, the middle caps leads of
> those 2 sections are even closer. That's probably the main arcing spot.
>
> You need to keep some distance. This square board isn't going to help
> you much. You would be better off with a caps side by side in a single
> run. Long perf board versus a square one.
>
> I know it sucks to hear that after you've soldered all the leads, but
it
> is what it is.
>
> Take care,
> Bart
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