RE: fiberglass topload project results (fwd)

["Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>]

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 21:38:00 -0400
From: Aron Koscho <kc5uto@xxxxxx>
To: 'Tesla list' <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: fiberglass topload project results (fwd)

Nick,

That top looks great! You may want to try using some denatured alcohol
or acetone to remove the red print on the al tape...

Aron

-----Original Message-----
From: Tesla list [mailto:tesla@xxxxxxxxxx] 
Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2007 6:32 PM
To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: fiberglass topload project results (fwd)


---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2007 19:23:57 -0700
From: NICK H <edgarsbat@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
Cc: calumet45@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: fiberglass topload project results

Hi all,
based on the thread regarding topload smoothness from July 11, my
roommate 
and I decided to make a new topload for our coil.
First, we started with Greg's method, except with a 48" o.d., 15" minor
dia. 
pool toy, and it got really tedious just finishing the first coat of
paper 
mache. Because it was available, and a large can of varnish was not, we 
opted to use fiberglass instead.

It took a few days (mostly waiting time though) to do the fiberglass
itself, 
and there were a few rough spots that had to be sanded out, but all in
all 
it was a lot less effort and time than I expected, and the end result is

nearly perfect.

The process from paper to fiber to gel-coat to alum tape has been 
photographed and should be fairly self-explanatory. for those who wish
to 
take a look, the making-of can be seen at:
http://picasaweb.google.com/calumet45/Toroid2007

The first run actually using it can be found at
http://picasaweb.google.com/calumet45/TeslaCoilSep12007

what do you think?
NICK

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 18:15:51 -0700
From: Barton B. Anderson <bartb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: top load smoothness (fwd)

Yes, fill in the cracks. Haven't tried bondo, but simple plaster of
paris products are low cost and easy to work with. Just add water. The
time is about 5 minutes to apply and dry over night. Do a few areas over
a few days until it's as big and as roughly smooth as your crafty hands
can lay it down. It's really not that hard. Sanding is messy, but very
easy.

If you think your way through it (don't hurry it), the end result is
better than any Al tape over flex duct (even when smoothed with a
spoon). The end result can be as good as a spun toroid - no kidding (and
I've got both to compare). But in the end, do what your comfortable
with. It's not really a big deal regardless of what you use.

Bart

Tesla list wrote:

>---------- Forwarded message ----------
>Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 01:52:18 +0000
>From: ameen_ghavam@xxxxxxxxxxx
>To: Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Re: top load smoothness (fwd)
>
>You can also use grout to fill in all the cracks, varnish it, then
cover
>it with strips of aluminum tape. Time consuming to say the least
however.
>
>-------------- Original message -------------- From: "Tesla list" 
><tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
>
>
>
>>---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2007
19:50:22 
>>-0500 From: Drake Schutt To: Tesla list Subject: Re: top load
smoothness 
>>(fwd)
>>
>>Scott- with my first coil I tried to cover regular (not flex duct)
ducting 
>>in bondo to try and make a smooth toroid and that was an utter waste
of 
>>time. Without covering flex ducting in fiberglass or something, the 
>>cheapest and least time consuming way to make a smooth surface is to
use 
>>flex ducting covered with aluminum tape and then smooth it down with a

>>spoon. I just did a couple like this recently and they are VERY
smooth.
>>
>>Drake
>>
>>On 7/5/07, Tesla list wrote:
>>
>>>---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2007
18:40:30 
>>>-0700 (PDT) From: G Hunter To: Tesla list Subject: Re: top load 
>>>smoothness (fwd)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>In a message dated 7/5/2007 3:44:33 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time, 
>>>>tesla@xxxxxxxxxx writes:
>>>>
>>>>Hey guys, Concerning the surface of top loads, does it make any 
>>>>significant difference in overall performance whether the surface is

>>>>very smooth or not (ex. spun aluminum toroid vs. dryer duct toroid).
If 
>>>>one is going for absolute maximum spark length (for his budget)
would it 
>>>>be worth his while to cover his corrugated toroids with something
like 
>>>>wood putty or paper mache and cover it with aluminum tape, or just
leave 
>>>>it alone. Thanks. Scott Bogard.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>Another alternative is paper mache. Obtain a vinyl swim ring pool
toy. 5" 
>>>x 20" is a popular size for small children. 9" x 38" is a common
adult 
>>>size. Inflate the swim toy as hard as possible using lung power and
cover 
>>>it with several layers of paper mache. It looks all wrinkly when
first 
>>>covered, but if the traditional recipe of newspaper, white glue, and 
>>>water is used, something cool happens. As the paper dries, it shinks,

>>>forming a smooth, tight skin. Allow it to dry completely, then
toughen 
>>>the shell with many coats of polyurethane varnish. The paper mache
soaks 
>>>up lots of varnish--be prepared to use a whole can. After the varnish
is 
>>>fully dry, wrap the form in aluminum duct tape and rub it down good
with 
>>>the back of a large spoon. With patient rubbing, the aluminum tape 
>>>covering will take on a burnished, chrome-like appearance. This kind
of 
>>>toroid looks much smoother than anything made from corrugated ducting
and 
>>>it is much cheaper than spun Al. Takes lots of time though--very
tedious.
>>>
>>>Cheers,
>>>
>>>Greg

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