Re: synchronous gap help (fwd)

["Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>]

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2007 18:58:22 -0500
From: D.C. Cox <resonance@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: synchronous gap help (fwd)



Try doing this about 1 sec after you shut the power off and see what 
happens.  No, don't --- you could get a bad burn.

It's not the xmfr producing the heat --- it's the peak current coming from 
the cap.  Although the xmfr has to supply the current for rapid recharging, 
it's the cap and it's resistance path that determine peak current and 
temp --- nothing to do with the xmfr rating.

It is usually near red hot when operating with too small electrodes.  A good 
coil design with this xmfr and a .02 - .03 uF cap will produce 5,000 degrees 
in the spark channel during operation with primary currents in the 
neighborhood of 200 peak Amps.

Bigger coils always cost more, no doubt about that.

Dr. Resonance
Resonance Research Corp.
www.resonanceresearch.com


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2007 3:02 PM
Subject: RE: synchronous gap help (fwd)


>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2007 15:49:45 -0400
> From: "Lau, Gary" <Gary.Lau@xxxxxx>
> To: Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: RE: synchronous gap help (fwd)
>
> Red-hot with just a 15/120 NST?  With my 15/60 NST and 5/32" tungsten
> rod, I can touch any part of the propeller-gap electrodes immediately
> following a 1-3 minute run.  The stationary electrodes do tend to get
> hotter due to less airflow, but definitely not approaching
> incandescence.
>
> I don't mean to nit-pick, but 1/4" rod is a bit pricey and unnecessary,
> IMO.
>
> Regards, Gary Lau
> MA, USA
>
>> Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2007 14:04:49 -0500
>> From: resonance <resonance@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
>> To: Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
>> Subject: Re: synchronous gap help (fwd)
>>
>>
>>
>> At this power level I would suggest 1/4 inch dia. electrodes.  1/8th
> inch
>> may overheat to redhot on the electrode tips and cause poor quenching.
>>
>> Resonance Research Corp.
>> www.resonanceresearch.com
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
>> To: <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
>> Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2007 11:07 AM
>> Subject: RE: synchronous gap help (fwd)
>>
>>
>> >
>> > ---------- Forwarded message ----------
>> > Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2007 08:11:56 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
>> > From: penny831@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>> > To: Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
>> > Subject: RE: synchronous gap help (fwd)
>> >
>> > I have a related question on the propellor gap. I'm planning on
> pushing
>> > 15/120 through an .125 thoriated tungsten electrode. Is that to much
> power
>> > for such a small electrode? Your thoughts would be appreciated.
>> >
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> >>From: Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
>> >>Sent: Jul 10, 2007 7:27 AM
>> >>To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
>> >>Subject: RE: synchronous gap help (fwd)
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>---------- Forwarded message ----------
>> >>Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2007 08:55:27 -0400
>> >>From: "Lau, Gary" <Gary.Lau@xxxxxx>
>> >>To: Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
>> >>Subject: RE: synchronous gap help (fwd)
>> >>
>> >>I think you're going to run into a problem using your relatively
> small
>> >>teletype motor to spin-up such a heavy 3/8" thick disk.  I was
> barely
>> >>able to get such a motor to spin a 09" thick x 6.12" diameter G10
> disk
>> >>with just 4 brass acorn nuts electrodes, and it utterly failed to
> sync
>> >>with anything larger.  I'd strongly recommend using a propeller gap
> if
>> >>using a Teletype motor.  My SRSG page:
>> >>http://www.laushaus.com/tesla/sync_gap.htm, and Terry Blake's:
>> >>http://tb3.com/tesla/sparkgaps/index.html
>> >>
>> >>Regards, Gary Lau
>> >>MA, USA
>> >>
>> >>> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
>> >>> Date: Mon, 09 Jul 2007 23:59:58 +0000
>> >>> From: ameen_ghavam@xxxxxxxxxxx
>> >>> To: Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
>> >>> Subject: synchronous gap help
>> >>>
>> >>>         I'm building a 240 bps srg for my tesla coil and was
> wondering
>> >>if
>> >>> anyone would give me any tips or suggestions. I'm planning to use
> a
>> >>3/8 "
>> >>> g10 rotor 8" in diameter with 4 1/4 " tungsten electodes held on
> with
>> >>> shaft collars (the disc is pinched between the collars). A sheet
> metal
>> >>> ring connects these electrodes. I have two stationary electrodes
> (one
>> >>> gap). My motor is a Teletype 1/12 hp motor, synchronous, and runs
> at
>> >>3600
>> >>> rpm. Any tips on how to balance, cut the g10 (i've heard its hard
> to
>> >>cut),
>> >>> motor arbor, or anything else I should know? Also, please email me
> off
>> >>the
>> >>> list. Thanks.
>> >>>
>> >>Cheers,
>> >>>
>> >>> Ameen Ghavam
>> >>>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
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