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RE: synchronous gap help (fwd)



---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2007 15:49:45 -0400
From: "Lau, Gary" <Gary.Lau@xxxxxx>
To: Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: synchronous gap help (fwd)

Red-hot with just a 15/120 NST?  With my 15/60 NST and 5/32" tungsten
rod, I can touch any part of the propeller-gap electrodes immediately
following a 1-3 minute run.  The stationary electrodes do tend to get
hotter due to less airflow, but definitely not approaching
incandescence.  

I don't mean to nit-pick, but 1/4" rod is a bit pricey and unnecessary,
IMO.

Regards, Gary Lau
MA, USA

> Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2007 14:04:49 -0500
> From: resonance <resonance@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: synchronous gap help (fwd)
> 
> 
> 
> At this power level I would suggest 1/4 inch dia. electrodes.  1/8th
inch
> may overheat to redhot on the electrode tips and cause poor quenching.
> 
> Resonance Research Corp.
> www.resonanceresearch.com
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2007 11:07 AM
> Subject: RE: synchronous gap help (fwd)
> 
> 
> >
> > ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> > Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2007 08:11:56 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
> > From: penny831@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > To: Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
> > Subject: RE: synchronous gap help (fwd)
> >
> > I have a related question on the propellor gap. I'm planning on
pushing
> > 15/120 through an .125 thoriated tungsten electrode. Is that to much
power
> > for such a small electrode? Your thoughts would be appreciated.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> >>From: Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
> >>Sent: Jul 10, 2007 7:27 AM
> >>To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
> >>Subject: RE: synchronous gap help (fwd)
> >>
> >>
> >>---------- Forwarded message ----------
> >>Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2007 08:55:27 -0400
> >>From: "Lau, Gary" <Gary.Lau@xxxxxx>
> >>To: Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
> >>Subject: RE: synchronous gap help (fwd)
> >>
> >>I think you're going to run into a problem using your relatively
small
> >>teletype motor to spin-up such a heavy 3/8" thick disk.  I was
barely
> >>able to get such a motor to spin a 09" thick x 6.12" diameter G10
disk
> >>with just 4 brass acorn nuts electrodes, and it utterly failed to
sync
> >>with anything larger.  I'd strongly recommend using a propeller gap
if
> >>using a Teletype motor.  My SRSG page:
> >>http://www.laushaus.com/tesla/sync_gap.htm, and Terry Blake's:
> >>http://tb3.com/tesla/sparkgaps/index.html
> >>
> >>Regards, Gary Lau
> >>MA, USA
> >>
> >>> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> >>> Date: Mon, 09 Jul 2007 23:59:58 +0000
> >>> From: ameen_ghavam@xxxxxxxxxxx
> >>> To: Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
> >>> Subject: synchronous gap help
> >>>
> >>>         I'm building a 240 bps srg for my tesla coil and was
wondering
> >>if
> >>> anyone would give me any tips or suggestions. I'm planning to use
a
> >>3/8 "
> >>> g10 rotor 8" in diameter with 4 1/4 " tungsten electodes held on
with
> >>> shaft collars (the disc is pinched between the collars). A sheet
metal
> >>> ring connects these electrodes. I have two stationary electrodes
(one
> >>> gap). My motor is a Teletype 1/12 hp motor, synchronous, and runs
at
> >>3600
> >>> rpm. Any tips on how to balance, cut the g10 (i've heard its hard
to
> >>cut),
> >>> motor arbor, or anything else I should know? Also, please email me
off
> >>the
> >>> list. Thanks.
> >>>
> >>Cheers,
> >>>
> >>> Ameen Ghavam
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> 
> 
>