synchronous motor

["Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>]

Original poster: "Anthony R. Mollner" <penny831@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>

I see now. Thanks Gerry, I hope to do some tests tomorrow. I dug out an old
momentary push button that's perfect for this now all I need to do is to get
a Cap. that will work. I have a few but I think they are to high a value.
Dr. Res. suggested 4 pf but what I have is in the 7-8 value. I might try
them anyways and see what happens.

Tony

-----Original Message-----
From: Tesla list [mailto:tesla@xxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2007 5:58 PM
To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [PHISH] Re: [PHISH] Re: [PHISH] RE: synchronous motor


Original poster: "Gerry  Reynolds" <gerryreynolds@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>

Hi Tony,

If the start cap was in parallel with the start winding, there would
be no phase shift in voltage across the start winding.  With the
switch closed, you would have line voltage across the main winding,
start winding, and start cap.  The start winding would not even know
of the presence of the cap.

Gerry R.


>Original poster: "Anthony R. Mollner" <penny831@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>
>That's exactly what I needed! I'm surprised that the cap. on the start
>winding is in series, I would have thought the cap was across the windings.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Tesla list [mailto:tesla@xxxxxxxxxx]
>Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 8:16 PM
>To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [PHISH] Re: [PHISH] RE: synchronous motor
>
>
>Original poster: "Gerry  Reynolds" <gerryreynolds@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>
>Hi Tony,
>
>The main winding is hooked to line_hot and line_neutral.  The start
>winding has three components in series (order probably not important)
>and goes like this:
>
>line_hot connected to cap.
>other side of cap connected to cut out switch
>other side of switch connected to start coil
>other side of coil connected to line_neutral
>
>If the rotation is in the wront direction, you can swap the two
>connections of the start coil.
>
>Gerry R.
>
> >Original poster: "Anthony R. Mollner" <penny831@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> >
> >Thanks for the advice. I checked the wiring and one set is indeed a
>heavier
> >gage than the other. One set is clearly 16 gage and I can read the sire
>size
> >off the insulation. The other set is smaller but I can't read what gage
>it
> >is. Perhaps 18 gage. I'm not clear as to how the capacitor and starter
> >winding are to be wired. Can some one walk me threw hooking it up to run
> >synchronous and for start up?
> >
> >Tony
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Tesla list [mailto:tesla@xxxxxxxxxx]
> >Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 10:28 PM
> >To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
> >Subject: [PHISH] RE: synchronous motor
> >
> >
> >Original poster: "Anthony R. Mollner" <penny831@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> >
> >Hi to the both of you,
> >    Your comments are invaluable to me. You make me wonder if I
> can > utilize
> >either winding? May I ask the question about wiring them? It sounds to me
> >like the run, start and starter capacitor needs to all be switched on at
>the
> >moment that it's turned on and than the start and winding and capacitor
>are
> >than disconnected, leaving the running winding on. Is that the how it
>needs
> >to be connected? I have a fully built propeller gap with a blower and
> >everything, ready to be fired up now, except for the final motor wiring!
> >Thanks for the help!
> >
> >Tony
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Tesla list [mailto:tesla@xxxxxxxxxx]
> >Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2007 8:29 PM
> >To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
> >Subject: Re: synchronous motor
> >
> >
> >Original poster: FutureT@xxxxxxx
> >
> >In a message dated 2/10/07 7:33:26 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> >tesla@xxxxxxxxxx writes:
> >
> >  >Hi Anthony,
> >  >
> >  >You might try to measure the resistance of the two winding.  If both
> >  >windings are the same guage and the same resistance, it might not
> >  >matter which one you use for the start winding.  Leaving them on all
> >  >the time may harm the start capacitor.  I dont think they would fight
> >  >each other since one has a different phase from the other (due to the
> >  >capacitor) and syncing is not an issue unless you modify the motor
> >  >for sync operation.  If you experiment with the windings, you may
> >  >want to fire up the motor for a very short time, power down, and see
> >  >if the windings are getting warm.  Repeat this for progressively
> >  >longer times until you are satisfied the motor is running
> >  >properly.  If you suspect it is not right, you may want to swap the
> >  >two windings and try again.
> >  >
> >  >Gerry R.
> >
> >
> >Gerry, Anthony,
> >
> >If Anthony's motor is like the one I tried, I found that the motor
> >never synched if the start winding remained connected.  It was
> >a 1/10 or 1/12 HP motor.  It had the special current-switch for
> >disconnecting the start winding as the motor came up to speed.
> >If I remember correctly, I was able to determine which was the
> >main winding by measuring its resistance as you suggested.
> >I think this motor used an 85uF start cap, or something similar.
> >
> >John
> >
> >
>
>