Re: primary coil stand off construction question.

["Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>]

Original poster: Yurtle Turtle <yurtle_t@xxxxxxxxx>

I got a "drill press" for around $40 from Harbor
Freight a couple of years ago:

http://www.hot-streamer.com/adam/bigass_coil/coil08.jpg

While it's a far cry from a "real" drill press, it
worked fine for cutting my primary supports and
internal baffles, and the price was right.

Adam

--- Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> Original poster: "Barton B. Anderson"
> <bartb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>
> Hi Vinnie,
>
> Lexan, delrin, or even hard readily available
> acrylic can be used for
> the supports (standoffs not required). I also use a
> hand drill (a
> nice Dewalt. Maybe next Christmas, a drill press?).
> Some of the
> harder materials such as acrylic are more difficult
> to machine. For
> primary's, something between 1/4" to 3/8" thick
> makes drilling less
> fragile. The drill bit itself is the key. You want a
> bit with a
> shallow angle (between 60 and 90 degrees). The
> standard 120 degree
> angle for metal work is designed to bite into the
> metal. This 120
> degree angle will often chip or crack acrylic. With
> a shallow bit
> angle, the work done "scrapes" a nice hole without
> chipping and cracking.
>
> Cutting the acrylic is more of a challenge than
> drilling. The first
> basic cut is easy. But after the holes are drilled,
> you'll need to
> mark a line to cut through the drilled holes
> slightly above center so
> that there is enough material to keep the primary
> snapped in place.
> When you cut that particular line, do it as precise
> as possible. I've
> done it with a hacksaw, but it's not easy to keep
> precision with a
> hand tool like that. Best to use a bandsaw with a
> guide edge preset
> into position. Then try snapping a length of tubing
> into it. Do you
> need more or less cut towards the center? Experiment
> is the key to
> finding what "you" feel is the right feel for the
> snap action.
>
> I recommend practicing first on a slab of material
> before cutting the
> intended runners. Like anything else, the art must
> be practiced to
> get comfortable with your own method and see if it
> what you set up
> works as you intended. It doesn't take long to
> realize the hole depth
> you like and to get good at the art. If you've ever
> worked with wood,
> this will be simple for you. If not, it may be a
> challenge. Much
> depends on the persons naturally born skills and the
> thing inside
> that drives him to build Tesla Coils.
>
> Take care,
> Bart
>
> Tesla list wrote:
>
> >Original poster: "Vinnie" <teslatech@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> >
> >Hello
> >
> >I'm in the process of rebuilding my flat primary
> and I want make or
> >purchase some
> >stand off spacers. Does anyone have an tips on
> constuction and materials?
> >I see alot of use of lexan and polyethylene. I want
> to stay away
> >from the PVC pipe
> >unless there is a way to make it look nice without
> several wire ties
> >to afix the copper
> >tubing. I'm kinda limited on tools. I don't have
> access to a drill
> >press but I have the
> >standard power drill and router. I'm concerned
> about the speed of
> >the tools actually melting
> >the plastic as well. Any help would be
> apprieciated.
> >
> >Thanks for your time.
> >
> >Vinnie
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>




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