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Re: static spark gaps



Original poster: "resonance" <resonance@xxxxxxxxxxxx>



The type we use are tungsten-molydenum alloy which is welded to copper. They are threaded 3/8-16 NC and screw into 1/2 inch dia x 1 1/2 inch long brass rod which is pressed axially thru 1/2 inch G-10 plate on the spark gap rotors.

Dr. Resonance


May I join this thread?:
Many people have mentioned Tungsten electrodes .... are these tungsten or tungsten carbide ?

If as suggested below a flat surface is best: what is the general opinion on using two silver faced contact breaker studs ( salvaged from a fork lift truck) as the static gap ( low power = ignition coil job- no pigs!)

They are brass , 1/2 dia. and have very thick silver plates* as the faces .* plates not platED.

Will the silver be good ... because of the conductivity , or bad because it's easily oxidised & eroded


Thanks

James - in Staffordshire,  England
www.SpamJab.com {UgzndUInruKjv2Cy9r}

----- Original Message ----- From: "Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 1:53 AM
Subject: Re: static spark gaps


Original poster: FutureT@xxxxxxx
In a message dated 2/2/07 1:22:14 AM Eastern Standard Time, tesla@xxxxxxxxxx writes:

>Original poster: Neal Namowicz
><mr_neal@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
>
>Hi guys,
>I've got a couple questions re: static spark gaps.
>First, what difference does
>it make regarding how much surface area is exposed
>for the gap? Specifically,
>which is better, less or more?


Neil,

Large surface area is *good*.  It also helps if it's a flat
surface area so the spark can move around and heat
various areas rather than concentrating the heat at
one area.  A cylindrical shape can be used so the
spark can at least move along a line.  The worst
situation is to use balls or any spherical shape which
concentrates the heat at one spot.  Such heating
may make it difficult for the gap to quench.  However
air flow can help the quenching.

Also, can a ssg be

>"over" quenched?


It depends on how you define over-quenching.  If you define
it as simply too much air to work well, then yes.  In this
case it really isn't over-quenching, rather the air prevents
the gap from firing steadily.  If you define over-quenching
as truly quenching too quickly (for example before the
1st notch of RF transfer.... this won't happen.


At the

>moment I'm using a blower that was scavenged from an
>old air-hockey table.
>Should I use a dimmer switch to vary the speed,
>since it does seem to move a
>lot of air? Thanks in advance for any advice!


Yes, it's good to be able to vary the speed if the dimmer
will work well in that application.

John

>
>Neal.