[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]
Re: Rotary Spark gaps electrode mount(fwd)
---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 11:12:19 -0500
From: James <mustang3@xxxxxxx>
To: Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rotary Spark gaps electrode mount(fwd)
I just gotta put my $.02 USD in here. The electrode holder that your
describing has to be fairly accurate in the through hole. The bolt will have
to be drilled concentric or the electrode will wobble, killing the balance.
Best to have bushings(electrode holders) machined. Steel is ok here. I have
been through all this part. The rotary (spinning) electrodes don't burn away
very fast. The stationary electrodes need adequate heat sinking. I used 1/4"
pure tungsten for both. I found a treadmill with a 1 HP DC motor. I had a
piece of phonolic (sp) .5 " thick machined into a circle and eight 1/4"
holes drilled. Same machinist made a hub from Al. at the same time. I
drilled and tapped into the holes and mounted the electrodes with a set
screw(no bushing). I should have drilled for the set screw at an acute angle
rather than straight in as I did. No shaft collars. I do place a wooden box
over it during use. Works well at 20KW input. James
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2007 10:30 AM
Subject: RE: Rotary Spark gaps electrode mount(fwd)
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2007 04:09:49 +0000
> From: ameen_ghavam@xxxxxxxxxxx
> To: Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: RE: Rotary Spark gaps electrode mount(fwd)
>
> Hey, anyone got suggestions as for mounting electrodes to rotary gap
> rotors? I was thinkin' if you got some threaded metal rod (sofer, like
> brass) and used a drill press to drill straight through the length of the
> rod to make it hollow, you could use nuts and bolts with set screws to
> have a very adjustable rod-holder. The one nut would have a threaded hole
> (simple with a die and tap tool set) that would go through a hole in the
> hollowed threaded rod. The nuts and holes are placed so that it holds the
> threaded rod pinched between the rotor. All you have to do is adjust the
> set screw that goes through the nut and rod to change electrodes. Hard to
> explain. However, you really need a drill press to make such acurate
> holes. But still, it would be nicer and more secure than simply using
> shaft collars.
> Any other ideas?
> Ameen Ghavam
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: "Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
>
>>
>> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
>> Date: Fri, 03 Aug 2007 23:21:50 +0000
>> From: David Rieben
>> To: Tesla list
>> Cc: drieben@xxxxxxxxxxx
>> Subject: RE: Rotary Spark gaps (fwd)
>>
>> Hi Steve,
>>
>> While electrical grade fiberglass will work and is considerably cheaper
>> than G-10, from my personal experience, it is NOT as good as G-10
>> for this purpose. I did originally use the GPO-3 electrical grade fiber-
>> glass for my rotary disc for my large coil. I used set screws to hold the
>> flying electrodes inplace and the fiberglass was too structurally unsound
>> to allow the set screws to be tightened down firmly without the threading
>> stripping out. Once I changed over to G-10, this problem completely dis-
>> appeared.
>>
>> --
>> David Rieben
>>
>> -------------- Original message --------------
>> From: "Tesla list"
>>
>> >
>> > ---------- Forwarded message ----------
>> > Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2007 12:42:27 -0600
>> > From: S&JY
>> > To: 'Tesla list'
>> > Subject: RE: Rotary Spark gaps (fwd)
>> >
>> > RSG Builders,
>> >
>> > There are other materials than G10 that can be successfully used for
>> > RSGs.
>> > Electrical-Grade Fiberglass (GPO3) works very well, has the needed
>> > strength
>> > and electrical properties, is easier to machine, and costs less than
>> > G10.
>> > It is available from McMaster-Carr: Look up their stock number 8549K47
>> > for
>> > an example.
>> >
>> > --Steve Y.
>> >
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> > From: Tesla list [mailto:tesla@xxxxxxxxxx]
>> > Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2007 10:13 PM
>> > To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
>> > Subject: Re: Spark gaps (fwd)
>> >
>> >
>> > ---------- Forwarded message ----------
>> > Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2007 22:37:24 -0400
>> > From: Scott Bogard
>> > To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
>> > Subject: Re: Spark gaps (fwd)
>> >
>> > Matthew,
>> > If the thought of using "machined" G10 scares you a little (I don't
>> > have machines, so I find it scary myself) consider building a propeller
>> > gap,
>> >
>> > like these.
>> > http://www.tb3.com/tesla/sparkgaps/index.html
>> > These are the type of gaps I use, and the only machine I need is a
>> > drill and
>> >
>> > a saw (no lathes or mills). They work good for me, and should also work
>> > good for you (although I have never tested the two side by side).
>> > Either
>> > way, no static gap is ever going to be as good for handling high power
>> > as a
>> > really well made rotary (I got huge increases when I switched, despite
>> > the
>> > fact I also greatly reduced my power input. I should also mention my
>> > rotary
>> >
>> > is not perfect, and it still works far better than all the other gaps I
>> > tried). Good luck.
>> > Scott Bogard.
>> >
>> >
>> > >From: "Tesla list"
>> > >To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
>> > >Subject: Re: Spark gaps (fwd)
>> > >Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 20:08:04 -0600 (MDT)
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >---------- Forwarded message ----------
>> > >Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2007 02:20:24 -0700
>> > >From: Barton B. Anderson
>> > >To: Tesla list
>> > >Subject: Re: Spark gaps (fwd)
>> > >
>> > >Hi Matthew,
>> > >
>> > >I concur with what D.C. has proposed here. If you want a "great spark
>> > >gap", do it right! A G10/tungsten gap with a well balanced machined
>> > >disc
>> > >and large enough tungsten electrodes for the power applied is
>> > >important.
>> > >Anything less will suffer greater losses. You can use tungsten tips or
>> > >pure tungsten rod stock (both are good). If your looking for a clear
>> > >winner, this is it.
>> > >
>> > >Take care,
>> > >Bart
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > >A good RSG is required around 5 kVA and upwards.
>> > > >
>> > > >With 5-12 kVA run 1/2" dia. brass feedthrus, 1.5 inches long, with
>> > > >replaceable 1/2" dia. tungsten tips. Stationary electrodes are 1
>> > > >inch
>> > >dia.
>> > > >tungsten, screw-in type. 2 x 2 inch dia brass block as stationary
>> > >holders.
>> > > >12" dia. x 1/2 inch G-10 rotor. 10 electrodes 3450 rpm. 1/2 HP
>> > > >motor.
>> > > >
>> > > >above 12 kVA, run 1" dia. brass feedthrus, 2.0 inches long, with
>> > >replaceable
>> > > >screw-in 1" tungsten tips. Stationary electrodes are 1.5 inch dia..
>> > > >3
>> > >x 3
>> > > >inch dia. brass block heatsinks as stationary holders. 18" dia.
>> > > >rotor x
>> > > >1/2" G-10. 10 electrodes 1725 rpm., 1HP motor.
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >Dr. Resonance
>> > > >Resonance Research Corp.
>> > > >www.resonanceresearch.com
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >----- Original Message -----
>> > > >From: "Tesla list"
>> > > >To:
>> > > >Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2007 11:16 AM
>> > > >Subject: Spark gaps (fwd)
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >>---------- Forwarded message ----------
>> > > >>Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2007 11:09:45 -0500
>> > > >>From: Matthew Boddicker
>> > > >>To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
>> > > >>Subject: Spark gaps
>> > > >>
>> > > >>This is Matthew Boddicker.
>> > > >>
>> > > >>Over the past year I have seen many different types of spark gaps
>> > > >>and
>> > >I'm
>> > > >>going to take on a large project that requires a very good spark
>> > > >>gap.
>> > >What
>> > > >>is the best spark gap? If there isn't a clear winner then what
>> > > >>circumstances
>> > > >>would justify which kind of spark gap?
>> > > >>
>> > > >>Thanks everyone!
>> > > >>
>> > > >>_________________________________________________________________
>> > > >>Learn.Laugh.Share. Reallivemoms is right place!
>> > > >>http://www.reallivemoms.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us
>> > > >>
>> > > >>
>> > > >>
>> > > >>
>> > > >>
>> > > >>
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> >
>> > _________________________________________________________________
>> > Tease your brain--play Clink! Win cool prizes!
>> > http://club.live.com/clink.aspx?icid=clink_hotmailtextlink2
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > --
>> > No virus found in this incoming message.
>> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>> > Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.2/933 - Release Date:
>> > 8/2/2007
>> > 2:22 PM
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>