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Re: contact spark gap



Original poster: "James Howells" <james@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>

I am not too sure, but is this not how a car ( automobile) distributor cap used to work ?
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----- Original Message ----- From: "Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2007 3:08 AM
Subject: RE: contact spark gap


Original poster: "earl rhodes" <earl_1975@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>

hi scott and all
ok full contact spark gap that sounds like it might work if your dealing with low power but as power increases so does the wear on your very small piece of bridging electrode i dare say it would desintegrate quite quickly or simply overheat and damage or warp the disc plus a solid state device whatever the size would be about a million times smaller ,tesla mentioned a mercry break this also was supposed to be a sparkless gap ive thought and thought about this thing and i dare say others have too the words "holy"and "grail"jump to mind so go for it anything thats even close to working will turn you godlike lol
regards
earl
but then again  i have no idea what im talking about!!


From: "Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: contact spark gap
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2007 22:49:56 -0600

Original poster: "Scott Bogard" <teslas-intern@xxxxxxxxxxx>

Hi everybody.
Since everybody is talking about spark gaps, I figured I'd throw out an idea I've had rolling around in my head for a while. A spark gap has losses in the spark, but solid state cannot handle the raw power a spark can (not yet anyway), so what if we eliminate the losses by having direct contact, and eliminate the power issue by dumping the semiconductors? Here is my idea, take a rotary spark gap, and cut the disk mounted electrodes flush with the disk surface, then mount brass bushings between two shafts, pinching the disk between them. As the disk turns it will make contact with the bushings and complete the tank circuit, dumping loads of power into the primary. The obvious problem with this is it will arc before it rolls over the contact defeating the whole purpose, but my thinking is you could use a smaller rod to increase "quenching" and submerge the whole thing in mineral oil to keep stuff cool and cut down on spark, but you will need a really tough motor. Has anybody out there tried this already? would there be any benefit? would it be as difficult to build as I think it would be? Just curious, thank you much.
Scott Bogard.

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