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Re: tesla coil does not work...
Original poster: "Qndre Qndre" <qndre_encrypt@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Hey.
Let's check your circuit step by step. Since this
issue can be caused by almost anything we'll
check each and every single component till we get
the one which is not functional. This can be much
of work but since the issue seems to be pretty
hard to locate, I don't see any alternative to this method.
1. Wiring: If it's a center-tapped secondary with
the center tap connected to RF-ground (NO
connection to mains-ground!!), midpoint-grounded
like you said, you can NOT ground one end of the
secondary as well as this will short out half of
your secondary winding. Do not ground any of the
hot wires but only the center tap which will give
you two hot wires, each having 5 kiloVolts in
reference to ground being 180° out of phase,
having 10 kiloVolts between both hot wires. Now
connect these two hot wires to the main spark gap
(with a Terry-Filter in between if you want to
protect your mains transformer from the RF). Now
wire primary coil and primary capacitor in series
forming the LC-circuit which should then be wired in parallel to the spark gap.
2. Mains transformer: You should be able to get
an arc between two pieces of wire connected to
the high-voltage output if distance is close
enough. If you get an arc, we're going to check the next component.
3. RF filter / NST protection / etc.: Hook up
your protection circuits to your transformer but
nothing else. Power it up and see if they have
internal shorts etc. which will make your
transformer hum or the faulty component burn. ;)
4. Spark gap: This should not be conducting
unless it's firing voltage is reached. Hook the
spark gap up to a low-voltage power-supply. You
should not have any current flowing through it.
If current flows, you have an internal shorting
(electrodes touching each other) or a carbonized
path somewhere. If it looks OK at low voltages,
hook it up to your mains transformer together
with your current-limiting. The voltage should be
high enough to make it fire. If not you have to
reduce the distance between the electrodes. If it
fires we're going to check the next component.
5. Capacitor: If using an MMC you can try to
charge every single cap using low-voltage DC and
measure it's voltage to see if it holds it. Don't
forget to discharge every cap after this since
you have many caps in series in your MMC so you
can get hazardous voltages across the whole
circuit since the voltages of all the caps in
series will sum up. Also remember that caps can
regain charge from dielectric memory. If all the
caps hold the charge properly we're going to
check the next component. This measurement can be
a bit harder if you have bleeder resistors across your caps.
6. Primary coil: This should be rather
conductive. If it isn't, there's something wrong with it.
7. Secondary circuit: If you still don't get any
output, there's something wrong with the tuning,
the coupling, the secondary is broken somehow or
doesn't have a good connection to RF-ground and
the topload capacitor. Check your secondary
circuit. If you are absolutely not sure if you
manage to achieve resonance between primary and
secondary circuit you can try to measure the
resonant frequencies of both using a frequency
generator and an oscilloscope. The coupling is
usually increased until you get racing arcs, then
it's decreased a bit to achieve "perfect" coupling.
Regards, Q.
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: tesla coil does not work...
Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 19:35:57 -0700
Original poster: "Langer Giv'r" <transworldsnowboarding19@xxxxxxxxxxx>
its a double pole xfrm with mid point ground
connected to the ground on my safety gap, and the
two hot wires are connected in series with the LC
ciruit, and in paralell with the main spark gap