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Re: how deep do the coilers prefer doing it? : )
Original poster: "Dmitry (father dest)" <dest@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Hallo Terry,
Wednesday, February 22, 2006, 10:57:41 PM, you wrote:
> Original poster: Vardan <vardan01@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>>the motor was rated for 5a at full load? and it was drawing 4.7a at
>>idling? % )
> When you cut the rotor down the inductance of the windings drops and
> it draws more current.
my motor is sync now starting from 180v, and at 220v it draws 0.31a -
still not 0.35a - i don`t know why, maybe something is really wrong
here % )
>>btw - do i need some degree of darkness to use a fluorescent bulb as
>>a strobe? coz i can`t see _any_ pattern
> It is hard to see with fluorescent lights since the phosphore glows
> on after the current drops. Neon bulbs are best.
he-he-he - i _can`t_ see anything with fluoro! you need something
that light up only at say 300v from 310v peak, coz else you would see a
full sector (or even more) instead of single mark - i`ve learned it
hard way today : ) neons ARE not much better - i used two thyratrons in
series, and they start to glow at 212v, so i have to use variac to
clearly see the mark on 1" diameter "stroboscope disk" : )
> BTW - I think you mentioned that you don't need a capacitor start
> motor like the zip file suggested. All of my motors are switched
> starter winding types (not capacitor start) and they work just
> fine. I am not sure why the author of the file wanted capacitor start...
yes, you can use just anything you have - you can use start winding
as run one, you can disconnect start winding on cap/induction start
motors and so on - no problems at all.
i have a couple of questions regarding motor torque - how much is the
braking torque when you just plug motor in and it is trying to start
rotate rsg wheel? is it equal to the moment of inertia of wheel?
when a wheel is achieved the full sync speed, is braking torque drops
to zero? then we really don`t need those horse powers.
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Let the bass kick! =:-D