Re: how deep do the coilers prefer doing it? : )

["Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>]

Original poster: Esondrmn@xxxxxxx 

Terry,

I agree, it is difficult to see with a fluorescent light.  If you are 
using a variac, you can definitely hear the motor lock into sync as 
you ramp up the voltage.  I believe both of mine lock around 100 volts ac.

Ed Sonderman

In a message dated 2/22/2006 9:05:03 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
tesla@xxxxxxxxxx writes:
Original poster: Vardan <vardan01@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>

Hi,

At 10:45 AM 2/20/2006, you wrote:
>Hallo Terry,
>
>you`ve wrote here:
>http://hot-streamer.com/TeslaCoils/Misc/sync_motor.txt
>
>"I am sitting here making a sync motor too.
>[...]
>I just powered my motor up and it runs perfectly and is in sync.  The
>current draw is 4.7 amps and the motor is rated for 5 amps so It runs
>fine."
>
>the motor was rated for 5a at full load? and it was drawing 4.7a at
>idling? % )

When you cut the rotor down the inductance of the windings drops and
it draws more current.

>my motor rated for about 2.2a and it consumpted 0.35a with no load
>before conversion, now being semi-converted (not sync yet, flats are
>only 1/3 rotor o.d. - too shallow) it`s current drawing is the same.

ok


>btw - do i need some degree of darkness to use a fluorescent bulb as
>a strobe? coz i can`t see _any_ pattern on cd (used in place of rsg
>disk, has 1cm wide stripe painted with black marker, then i painted
>1/4 of the disk surface with the same result - no results) at day
>light : \

It is hard to see with fluorescent lights since the phosphore glows
on after the current drops.  Neon bulbs are best.  But if you have
significant flats in the rotor, it has to lock.  Nothing can go wrong there.

BTW - I think you mentioned that you don't need a capacitor start
motor like the zip file suggested.  All of my motors are switched
starter winding types (not capacitor start) and they work just
fine.  I am not sure why the author of the file wanted capacitor start...

Cheers,

        Terry