Re: how deep do the coilers prefer doing it? : )

["Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>]

Original poster: Vardan <vardan01@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>

Hi,

At 10:45 AM 2/20/2006, you wrote:
> Hallo Terry,
>
> you`ve wrote here:
> http://hot-streamer.com/TeslaCoils/Misc/sync_motor.txt
>
> "I am sitting here making a sync motor too.
> [...]
> I just powered my motor up and it runs perfectly and is in sync.  The
> current draw is 4.7 amps and the motor is rated for 5 amps so It runs
> fine."
>
> the motor was rated for 5a at full load? and it was drawing 4.7a at
> idling? % )

When you cut the rotor down the inductance of the windings drops and 
it draws more current.

> my motor rated for about 2.2a and it consumpted 0.35a with no load
> before conversion, now being semi-converted (not sync yet, flats are
> only 1/3 rotor o.d. - too shallow) it`s current drawing is the same.

ok


> btw - do i need some degree of darkness to use a fluorescent bulb as
> a strobe? coz i can`t see _any_ pattern on cd (used in place of rsg
> disk, has 1cm wide stripe painted with black marker, then i painted
> 1/4 of the disk surface with the same result - no results) at day
> light : \

It is hard to see with fluorescent lights since the phosphore glows 
on after the current drops.  Neon bulbs are best.  But if you have 
significant flats in the rotor, it has to lock.  Nothing can go wrong there.

BTW - I think you mentioned that you don't need a capacitor start 
motor like the zip file suggested.  All of my motors are switched 
starter winding types (not capacitor start) and they work just 
fine.  I am not sure why the author of the file wanted capacitor start...

Cheers,

        Terry



> -----
> Let the bass kick! =:-D