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Re: Re rotary gap design



Original poster: "Gerry  Reynolds" <gerryreynolds@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>

Hi Scot,

I did the same thing sorta, but used brass instead of stainless and used set screws. Found that HSS drills dont work well (the small drill for the pilot hole has too much flex to drill straight) and had to use cobalt drills instead.

Gerry R.

Original poster: BunnyKiller <bunikllr@xxxxxxx>

I drilled out the center of 5/16-18 stainless steel button head socket screws to match the dia of the tungsten rod ( 1/8"), then I a vise to slightly compress the bolt to close in the hole a tad, pressed the tungsten rod into the drilled bolt ( screw), ground of the excess length of rod to make them all match. I placed the bolt into the holes on the disc and installed the nuts, being that the bolt was slightly eliptical, the nuts went on with some tightness ( almost self locking) , and balanced the disc... a bit heavier than just the tungsten rod but very easy to change out....

Scot D



Tesla list wrote:

Original poster: FIFTYGUY@xxxxxxx
In a message dated 4/24/06 2:33:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time, tesla@xxxxxxxxxx writes:

>I wonder if you couldnt get a machinist to either put two small groves
>in a tungsten electrode (or in a sheath heat shrunk around the
>electrode) and then secure the electrode to the disk with circle clips
>on both sides.

That sounds like a good idea, especially since it's such a simple solution!

-Phil LaBudde