Re: spray enamel vs shellack

["Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>]

Original poster: "Paul B. Brodie" <pbbrodie@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>

Karl,
Thanks. Well, I went back to Home Depot, my saint of a wife took me, and we 
got some help and searched out all of their spray polyurethane offerings. 
You know what??? Them boys down to the Home Depot just sees me acomin' ever 
time!!! Every time I go, the lowest price they have for a spray can of 
polyurethane paint is $5.97!!! Now, they do have clear coat enamel for 
$2.97, which is pretty close to what they want for it at Wally World.

Seriously, the prices are accurate. I checked the listed ingredients on the 
clear enamel to make sure it didn't list anything that I would consider 
conductive after it dries. It doesn't. I think you are right about building 
up thick coats. I'm pretty sure that the polyurethanes designed as 
furniture paint are deliberately configured to be applied in thick coats in 
order to protect the furniture.

My brother-in-law is a professional painter and also has a decoupage 
business. He has recommended that I use his acrylic especially made for 
decoupage. It can easily be applied to almost any thickness you want. As an 
example, he took some old photos of one of my drag racers and put them on a 
piece of plywood. He then put raised edges all around it with cardboard. 
Then, he poured the acrylic over the pictures. He kept pouring and pouring 
until he had a layer of acrylic about 1/8 of an inch thick, at least. After 
several days, it dried as hard as a rock!!! This will protect the windings 
without any doubts at all! It is also crystal clear. Of course, since I 
want to apply it to a cylinder, I obviously can't just pour it on this way. 
I do think that if it is applied while the secondary is rotating on a 
fixture, as many of you have recommended, I can apply as many coats as I 
want. The biggest bonus of all is that my brother-in-law has donated plenty 
of acrylic to the cause!!! I'll report on the results once complete. Has 
anyone else tried this type of acrylic coating?
Paul
Think Positive

----- Original Message -----
From: "Tesla list" <<mailto:tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <<mailto:tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2005 1:56 PM
Subject: Re: spray enamel vs shellack

> Original poster: Karl Lindheimer 
<<mailto:karl@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>karl@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>
> Hi Paul,
>
> I second Jim's posting that nearly any CLEAR coating should work fine for
> Tesla coiling.  I have used clear poly, spray lacquer, and epoxy coatings
> on the secondary, with no problems.  Clear shipping tape also works.  The
> main purpose of coating the secondary coil is not so much as for
> insulation, but rather for mechanical protection of the
> windings.  Occasionally, thermal expansion and contraction will cause
> windings to slip and fall.
>
> Coatings to avoid would include anything that would be remotely conductive,
> such as black barbecue paint, metallic paints containing silver and gold
> flecks, and probably latex (contains water until dry.)
>
> Let us know how the clear enamel paint works for you.
>
> Karl
>
>
> On May 8, 2005, at 1:20 AM, Tesla list wrote:
>
>>Jim,
>>Now there is a real coincidence!!! Krylon clear coat is one of the spray
>>paints I have been considering. I found some at WallyWorld for a little
>>over $2.50 a can vs. over $5.50 for the cheapest polyurethane. That is
>>actually less than what they want for a roll of Saran Wrap. Now, I think
>>I'll just go back and get a can of this. If I get bad results, which
>>considering what you say I shouldn't, I will let everyone know so they
>>won't repeat my error. (I'm hoping for, No Runs, No Drips, No Errors!
>>Oops, that's Rustoleum, not Krylon!{:-))
>>Regards.
>>Paul
>
>
>