Re: Advice on Primary

["Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>]

Original poster: Chip Atkinson <chip@xxxxxxxxxx>

I wanted to add a little to the notches vs. holes too --
definitely go with notches.

When making the notches, use a round cutter like a drill or milling cutter
to match the shape of the tubing.  The trick that I discovered was to
drill the "hole" so that the center of it is about 1/16" from the edge of
your "comb".  That way you have a little more than a half circle and you
can actually snap in the tubing.  If you need to you can snap it out too.
You have the option of removing it easily yet it's held securely while you
are using it.

Chip

On Tue, 22 Feb 2005, Tesla list wrote:

> Original poster: BunnyKiller <bunikllr@xxxxxxx>
>
> Hi Benjamin...
>
>
> welcome to the world of Tesla Coiling....   where there are a million
> answers to each question..  :)
>
> use the notch configuration    you "snap" the tubing into the "C" shaped
> holes   much easier than threading the "needle" with a solid thread...
>
> also   start from the inside   its easier to add tubing to the outer than
> inner diameters..
>
> AVOID bending the tubing any more than you have to    the so called soft
> copper tubing ( annealed tubing is soft but once you bend it it hardens)
> commonly know as Refidgerator H2O tubing is soft to a degree  but as you
> work with it it becomes more and more "harder" ( the term is  "Work 
Hardening")
>
> TAKE YOUR TIME  :)  set up your support in a slightly loose manner and
> begin placing the tube into the notches ...   shape the coil as you go
> around each turn...  you will eventually end up with a close to perfect 
coil...
>
> if you are wondering what the notches are all about see this page
>
>
> http://members.cox.net/bunikllr/bigpig.html
>
>
> pictures 8,9,10.....
>
> Scot D
>
> aka BunnyKiller
>
>
>
>
> Tesla list wrote:
>
> >Original poster: "Medina, Benjamin (UMR-Student)" <bamxbb@xxxxxxx>
> >
> >Hello,
> >
> >I know this topic has already been discussed but I am still having doubts
> >when it comes to the winding of the copper tubing through the holes or
> >notches of the supports. So if someone could clear this up for me that
> >would be very much appreciated.
> >
> >As of now this is what I plan on using:
> >
> >1. A 50ft roll of 1/4" OD refrigeration copper tubing.
> >2. A 3/4" thick sheet of plywood as the base.
> >3. 5 supports in an L shape cut out from a cutting board I got at WAL-MART
> >fixed to the plywood base with screws (similar to the image below).
> >
> >
> >http://hot-streamer.com/temp/Medinaimage001.jpg
> >
> >
> >At first I thought of fixing the supports to the base and winding the
> >tubing through the holes, but now I am realizing it will be a PAIN!!
> >Therefore, should I slide in the supports, starting at the center and work
> >my way outside, through the entire roll of tubing? Or should I start at
> >the ends and work my way inside?
> >
> >Some people prefer holes in the supports; others prefer notches. I am not
> >sure about this. I am thinking that the notches might bend the tubing if
> >one is not careful when doing this. Any suggestions?
> >
> >Say I want 15 turns. While winding the tubing, let's say I run out of
> >tubing on the 11th turn. Is it okay to solder another continuous piece of
> >tubing to the original, to complete the 15 turns or not? I guess, what I
> >am asking is if I need a continuous roll of tubing or not? Will this
> >affect the coupling and/or the overall performance of the TC?
> >
> >Another thing I noticed is the fact that the tubing is double wounded,
> >making it even more tedious to work with it. A guy at Home Depot suggested
> >to unroll the tubing on the floor and then wind it on/through the
> >supports. Any suggestions?
> >
> >I appreciate your time. Thanks for the help.
> >
> >Regards,
> >
> >Benjamin Medina
> >Rolla, Missouri.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>