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Re: Medium coil considerations



Original poster: "Barton B. Anderson" <bartb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>

Hi Mike,

I use Marine Spar Varnish on my coils. This varnish has a brownish color to it. Thus, on a clear form, it would be seen. Probably best to just tape off the form just above the winding and remove the tape after varnishing. You may need to use an exacto knife slightly above the winding ends to ensure you don't tear or flake the varnish off the secondary.

Take care,
Bart

Tesla list wrote:

Original poster: "MIKE HARDY" <MHARDY@xxxxxxxxxx>

Well thanks for the encouragement Bart! I just came up from the basement,
finishing the winding to 30". I'll go ahead and add the other 2 " tomorrow.
Then I have to use some polyethalyn varnish to seal it. Does anyone know if
the clear varnish will stain the clear acrylic tubing?
Alright when I get to the point of needing the toroid, I'll go ahead and
weld the plate on. Of cource any and all further comments are welcome.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, August 05, 2005 1:04 AM
Subject: Re: Medium coil considerations


> Original poster: "Barton B. Anderson" <bartb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> > > Hi Mike, > > You won't see a difference in the 5.3:1 or 5:1 ratios. Because they > are so close, you would be hardpressed to find a difference. Most > people take Dr. R's recommendation of building an h/d somewhere in > the vicinity of 4:1 to 5:1. 5.3:1 is fine if that's what you choose. > > John had a good idea of putting a smaller second toroid below the > half toroid, but for a more permanent solution, I think you have the > right idea of welding (and of course smoothing out the weld) a flat > disc to close up the open side. A flat disc will work perfectly well. > Many toroids are built this way. > > Take care, > Bart > > Tesla list wrote: > > >Original poster: "MIKE HARDY" <MHARDY@xxxxxxxxxx> > > > >Hi all! First let me say, thanks to everyone on the list. I've been > >monitoring this sight for over 10 months, gathering information, and learning > >as much as possible while lerking in the shadows. I found about it from Dr. > >R back in late october when I bought a pig, 18" fiberglass coil form, and a > >34 X 8.5 inch toroid. I am working on a big coil. I succesfully built a 4" > >coil that gives me about 40" sparks with a 15/60 NST. > >I sent this same intro a while back in the middle of another thread. > >My name is Mike > >and as can probably be seen I live in Wisconsin. For that matter I > >would like to > >meet/ corespond with other Wi coilers. Maybe at the comming > >Cheeshead Teslathon, > >if not before. > >I think before i fully dive into the giant coil, I should build a > >medium coil and start > >playing with 3 - 5 KW. I plan on winding 20 awg wire for 30 to 32 > >inches on an exact > >6 inch o.d acrylic form. > >First question; Am I better of winding for 32 inches with a H:W > >ratio of 5.3:1 and > >957 turns -or- > >for 30 inches with a H:D of 5:1 , and 897 turns. > >Here I figure the greater the distance from toroid to primary the > >better, but is keeping > >under 5 preferable? > >Second question; I bought the 'half toroid' from Norman F. Stanley. see > >'half toroid for sale' in july archives for pics. Anyway it is a 24' > >spun toroid. It is not a > >conventional toroid, that is O-----O as a cross section, but rather (_____) > >with an 18 inch hole in the top. I was wondering if simply tig welding an 18" > >plate in the hole (properly smoothed etc.) would be adaquet for > >controling the field, > >and preventing breakout of my top turns. Or should I try to find a > >concave aluminum > >dish to weld in the hole, so the toroid fits down, and 'hugs' the > >top of the secondary. > >Again much thanks to a fantastic group of folks! > > > >