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Re: newbie question - spark gap and toroid
Original poster: "Bunny Killer" <bunikllr-at-bellsouth-dot-net>
Hey Shu..
I was looking at your spark gap and was wondering if you have any problems
with the hi voltage jumping to the fan frame since it in such close
proximity to the gap rail...
the spark gap looks well built and nicely done.... since it is aluminum
it should stay relativitly cool compared to copper pipes.. I would expect
pitting and scorching after sometime since aluminumm has a lower melting
point that copper or brass ( even copper pits and scorches in due
time) since aluminum has a tendency to build up a coating of aluminum
oxide on the surface ( which is somewhat an insulator ) you will probably
see sparks being made at set points in the gap structure which will
probably accelerate wear at those points....
just some thoughts..
Scot D
Tesla list wrote:
>Original poster: "ho \[shu\] huang" <shuhuang-at-singnet-dot-com.sg>
>Hey!
>
>I've got my tesla coil to work but I've got a couple of quick questions
>for you pros out there: -
>
>1. My SG spark gap's made from aluminium curtain rail, not copper pipe.
>The rail is flat, so it's easier to mount. Does it matter? My coil works,
>but I'm not sure if aluminium hinders performance in any way.
>
>2. Does it matter that air isn't blown directly at the sparks? Do the
>sparks require a lot of air to be "quenched", or will a bit of moving air
>be enough? In other words, is more wind better?
>
>My spark gap (pic here: http://web.singnet-dot-com.sg/~shuhuang/spark_gap3.jpg
>) sparks at the ends of the rails, which is sort of shielded by the 10mm
>thick plastic support. I can easily reconfigure it so that the sparks get
>most of the breeze from the fan, but I'm wondering if it's worth the
>effort. The fans blow, rather than suck, BTW.
SNIPPERZZ>>