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Re: Wiring suggestions



Original poster: "Hydrogen18" <hydrogen18-at-bellsouth-dot-net> 

I bought some 10/3 300 volt stuff today. I asked for 10/3 600 volt but he
sold me the wrong stuff I realized after I got out of the store. If it fails
I'll just tell them I asked for 600 volt and they sold me 300 so its there
fault. Thanks for the help guys.

---Eric
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
To: <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
Sent: Sunday, May 23, 2004 4:08 PM
Subject: Re: Wiring suggestions


 > Original poster: "Jim Lux" <jimlux-at-earthlink-dot-net>
 >
 > If you're using 240V, then why not use a grounding plug with the two hots
 > and ground?  You can make 120 from 240V inside your box if you need it
with
 > a small transformer or other means.
 >
 > Anytime someone talks about creating a piece of high power electrical
gear,
 > and doesn't connect a "safety ground" at the same time, I get a bit
nervous.
 > (aside from it being pretty blatantly "not to code"... the only cases I
can
 > recall where you don't need an explicit ground connection, tied to the
power
 > ground in some fairly reliable way, is with permanently installed
appliances
 > where the grounding is assured by "other means").
 >
 > Yes, they DO sell plugs that have three blades and no ground, but they're
 > for special purposes, and their use is deprecated on new equipment.
 >
 > The ground stake may be fine for RF (although maybe not...), it's not
 > sufficient for electrical safety purposes, unless you've separately run a
 > wire to the electrical system grounding point and bonded it sufficiently
 > you're taking your life (or someone else's) life in your hands. (that
 > doesn't mean a 24AWG cliplead, but is a "exothermically welded" or
"approved
 > pressure connector" sort of thing)
 >
 > The correct plugs and receptacles are too cheap to fool with trying to
 > cobble together something else.  If you're running enough power that you
 > need 30Amp service (i.e. you're not just running a single NST, etc.) then
 > you need to make the $20-40 investment in the right plug and receptacle.
 > That AWG 10 power cord is going to set you back that much if it's very
long.
 >
 >
 > ----- Original Message -----
 > From: "Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
 > To: <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
 > Sent: Sunday, May 23, 2004 10:25 AM
 > Subject: Re: Wiring suggestions
 >
 >
 >  > Original poster: "Hydrogen18" <hydrogen18-at-hydrogen18-dot-com>
 >  >
 >  > The plug I use has both sides of the line and the neutral, no ground.
My
 >  > garage wasnt wired for 4 wire. Plus, I have a ground stake which will
be
 >  > connected to this thing when in use. I'm probaly goign to get 3 wire 10
 >  > guage tommorow.
 >  >
 >  > ---Eric
 >  > ----- Original Message -----
 >  > From: "Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
 >  > To: <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
 >  > Sent: Saturday, May 22, 2004 7:34 PM
 >  > Subject: Re: Wiring suggestions
 >  >
 >  >
 >  >  > Original poster: "Jim Lux" <jimlux-at-earthlink-dot-net>
 >  >  >
 >  >  >
 >  >  > ----- Original Message -----
 >  >  > From: "Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
 >  >  > To: <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
 >  >  > Sent: Saturday, May 22, 2004 3:41 PM
 >  >  > Subject: Re: Wiring suggestions
 >  >  >
 >  >  >
 >  >  >  > Original poster: "Harold Weiss" <hweiss-at-new.rr-dot-com>
 >  >  >  >
 >  >  >  > Hi Eric,
 >  >  >  >
 >  >  >  > You would want at least 10 gauge wire for 30A.  10/4 SOW cable
can
 > be
 >  >  > bought
 >  >  >  > at most home improvement stores.  The black and red are your hot
 > leads,
 >  >  > with
 >  >  >  > the white being neutral and the green ground.  Preferably go with
 > 30A
 >  >  > twist
 >  >  >  > lock connections, as the 30A dryer plugs aren't the safest things
to
 >  >  > unplug
 >  >  >  > if the line is hot. (too easy to get fingers into the prongs)
 >  >  >  >
 >  >  >  >
 >
 >
 >