[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]
Re: Wiring suggestions
Original poster: "Hydrogen18" <hydrogen18-at-bellsouth-dot-net>
I bought some 10/3 300 volt stuff today. I asked for 10/3 600 volt but he
sold me the wrong stuff I realized after I got out of the store. If it fails
I'll just tell them I asked for 600 volt and they sold me 300 so its there
fault. Thanks for the help guys.
---Eric
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
To: <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
Sent: Sunday, May 23, 2004 4:08 PM
Subject: Re: Wiring suggestions
> Original poster: "Jim Lux" <jimlux-at-earthlink-dot-net>
>
> If you're using 240V, then why not use a grounding plug with the two hots
> and ground? You can make 120 from 240V inside your box if you need it
with
> a small transformer or other means.
>
> Anytime someone talks about creating a piece of high power electrical
gear,
> and doesn't connect a "safety ground" at the same time, I get a bit
nervous.
> (aside from it being pretty blatantly "not to code"... the only cases I
can
> recall where you don't need an explicit ground connection, tied to the
power
> ground in some fairly reliable way, is with permanently installed
appliances
> where the grounding is assured by "other means").
>
> Yes, they DO sell plugs that have three blades and no ground, but they're
> for special purposes, and their use is deprecated on new equipment.
>
> The ground stake may be fine for RF (although maybe not...), it's not
> sufficient for electrical safety purposes, unless you've separately run a
> wire to the electrical system grounding point and bonded it sufficiently
> you're taking your life (or someone else's) life in your hands. (that
> doesn't mean a 24AWG cliplead, but is a "exothermically welded" or
"approved
> pressure connector" sort of thing)
>
> The correct plugs and receptacles are too cheap to fool with trying to
> cobble together something else. If you're running enough power that you
> need 30Amp service (i.e. you're not just running a single NST, etc.) then
> you need to make the $20-40 investment in the right plug and receptacle.
> That AWG 10 power cord is going to set you back that much if it's very
long.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
> To: <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
> Sent: Sunday, May 23, 2004 10:25 AM
> Subject: Re: Wiring suggestions
>
>
> > Original poster: "Hydrogen18" <hydrogen18-at-hydrogen18-dot-com>
> >
> > The plug I use has both sides of the line and the neutral, no ground.
My
> > garage wasnt wired for 4 wire. Plus, I have a ground stake which will
be
> > connected to this thing when in use. I'm probaly goign to get 3 wire 10
> > guage tommorow.
> >
> > ---Eric
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
> > To: <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
> > Sent: Saturday, May 22, 2004 7:34 PM
> > Subject: Re: Wiring suggestions
> >
> >
> > > Original poster: "Jim Lux" <jimlux-at-earthlink-dot-net>
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
> > > To: <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
> > > Sent: Saturday, May 22, 2004 3:41 PM
> > > Subject: Re: Wiring suggestions
> > >
> > >
> > > > Original poster: "Harold Weiss" <hweiss-at-new.rr-dot-com>
> > > >
> > > > Hi Eric,
> > > >
> > > > You would want at least 10 gauge wire for 30A. 10/4 SOW cable
can
> be
> > > bought
> > > > at most home improvement stores. The black and red are your hot
> leads,
> > > with
> > > > the white being neutral and the green ground. Preferably go with
> 30A
> > > twist
> > > > lock connections, as the 30A dryer plugs aren't the safest things
to
> > > unplug
> > > > if the line is hot. (too easy to get fingers into the prongs)
> > > >
> > > >
>
>
>