Re: machining copper (fwd)

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Original poster: "Gerry Reynolds" <gerryreynolds-at-earthlink-dot-net> 

Thankyou Ed,

My problem with drilling brass was seizing and breaking the bit.  I tryed
30W oil and all that did was to inhibit the cutting process and smoke.  So I
used nothing and went slowly relieving the bit frequently.  Also small steel
bits wandered from center (when drilling thru the axial center of a brass
bolt).  Colbalt drills did not wander but would still seize and snap.  I
will try WD40 next time.

Gerry R

 > Original poster: Edward Wingate <ewing7-at-rochester.rr-dot-com>
 >
 >  > From: Gerry Reynolds <gerryreynolds-at-earthlink-dot-net>

 >  > Hi Ed,
 >  >
 >  > What do you recommend for brass? drills, taps, and dies.
 >  >
 >  > Gerry R.
 >
 > Gerry,
 >
 > "Just about any metal known to man" mentioned below, includes brass. I
 > frequently use WD-40 for brass because it's not as messy and easier to
 > clean up than "Tap Magic". Tap Magic works on stainless, Inconel, Monel,
 > Beryllium, Molybdenum, Aluminum, Magnesium, Copper, Bronze, Brass,
 > Titanium, Cobalt, Nickel, Cast Iron, etc.
 >
 > Also, and this is one of those tricks of the trade, use a stone to make
 > a .015" or so flat on each cutting edge of the drill that is parallel to
 > the centerline of the drill and runs at a 90 degree angle
 > (perpendicular) to the workpiece. That will keep the drill from
 > "catching" when breaking through the bottom of the material on brass and
 > other soft materials. Drills modified in this manner will still work
 > fine on any other material, but will save you a trip to the emergency
 > room of your local hospital to re-attach severed fingers!
 >
 > Ed Wingate RATCB