Re: Machining Lexan

["Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>]

Original poster: Mark Broker <mbroker-at-thegeekgroup-dot-org> 

I have experimented fire polishing on spare pieces of Lexan, but was unable 
to get the relatively rough machined edges to clear up much.  While the 
smaller scuff marks on all the Lexan parts cleared up nicely, the deeper 
gouges I found impossible to remove without burning the corners or 
sub-surface bubbles forming.  The primary supports may polish up OK, but I 
worry about all the sharp corners getting burned.  I have had an offer 
previously to have someone experienced fire polish it all with a 
hydrogen-oxygen flame.  I may yet take that person up on their offer.

I guess some descriptions are in order....

The primary base is 16"D x 1/2" Lexan.  Since I lacked a good router with a 
follower bit and guide, I used a mill to create the wedges.  A 1/4" wide x 
1/16" deep grove was milled for each primary support.  The legs are 1.00"D 
Lexan rod.  The white MDF sub-base will hold the static spark gap, NST, 
Terry Filter, and Geek MMC.  The primary supports are 1/4" Lexan; shape and 
slots were milled.  I used some "Goop" rated specifically for plastics to 
glue the supports to the base.  The primary and strike rail (not shown) are 
3/16" copper tubing spaced 3/8" center-to-center.  Secondary is a 3.5" PVC 
form wound with 18.5" of 28AWG.  Toroid will be a 4" aluminum drier duct 
wrapped with masking tape for increased dent-resistance followed by 
aluminum tape.  Power will be a 12/60 NST.

And some people claim I have neither an appreciation for nor ability to 
create art....

Cheers!

Mark Broker
Chief Engineer, The Geek Group



On Thu, 01 Jan 2004 17:15:47 -0700, Tesla list <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com> wrote:

>Original poster: Beans45601-at-aol-dot-com You probably already know this, and 
>are just waiting till your all done.
>
>But if you run a torch over the end of the plexi, they will clear up and 
>look much better.
>
>This coil will turn out to be beautiful.
>
>-Adam
>KD5WIT