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Re: MOT info



Original poster: "Black Moon" <black_moons@xxxxxxxxxxx>

Uh guys, there IS no cost diffrence beween 120v at 60amps and 240v at 30amps, your charged by the watt, not by the amp.

From: "Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: MOT info
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2004 11:49:28 -0700

Original poster: Rich Simpson <richcreations@xxxxxxxxx>


I wouldn't worry about the difference cost wise between 30A and 60A draw. Assuming you run it for an hour a day at ~14 kW (plenty enough to annoy/scare the neighbors/police/swat team) over a month that's $84 vs. $42 for ~7kW. I seriously doubt you'll actually run it that much before spark gaps need replaced, ears need a rest, etc. I think it's always easier to use inductive ballasting and cheaper. With caps you'd need lots of them in parallel to handle the 30-60A and you'd need lots of uF (about 100uF for around 25A limiting off the top of my head). I haven't actually tried this myself, but seems like the caps would heat up like resistive ballasting. I personnly would just use the hardware store ballast, (2) 500' rolls of 10-12 awg for 26A limiting.
I just got my new bigger variac, it is a new dual 120V/22A (motorized) unit that I paid dearly for, and I really do not want to burn it out, what should I do to get the current down to 22A@240v? Again this was for a 6 or 8 mot stack (which is just until I can save up for a pig or more neons as all I have is a 6kv/30ma neon (and that is just not enough for my 4 inch coil ;-)

Thanks Again
-Rich