Re: All who know VTTC stuff ;-). (fwd)

["Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>]

Original poster: "Kreso Bukvic" <kreso.bukvic-at-kc.htnet.hr> 

If you could give me your e-mail i could send you the datasheet.

I tried replacing the tank cap with 2.2 nf. I could not tune the coil nad it
didnot perform better

Would it be better to use bigger topload?

Here is a short specs

       QB 3,5/750 Kurzdaten

       Ua
      4 kV
      Uf
      5 V

       Pa
      250 W
      If
      14 A

       Ik
      350 mA





Best Regards

Keso Bukvic
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
To: <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
Sent: Saturday, July 24, 2004 7:34 PM
Subject: Re: All who know VTTC stuff ;-). (fwd)


 > Original poster: FutureT-at-aol-dot-com
 >
 > In a message dated 7/21/04 7:55:55 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
 > tesla-at-pupman-dot-com writes:
 >
 > >Ok here you can see the old look and how im rebulding the coil.
 > >
 >
 >http://free-kc.htnet.hr/Kreso-Bukvic/Teslin%20transformator%20s%20vakumskom
%
 > >20cijevi.htm
 > >
 > >It maked 20 cm sparks not 20 inch ( i wish it would).
 >
 >
 > Kreso,
 >
 > I looked at the coil and it is nicely built.  That looks like a nice
 > tube too.  Let's see 20cm is about 8".  You still didn't give the
 > specs for the tube i don't think, and that is the most important
 > thing in trying to calculate the spark length that the coil may
 > be capable of .   Do you have the specs for the tube?
 > Also is the tube new or used?  If used it's possible
 > the tube has low emission, but in that case you'll usually see
 > a brownish uneven coating on teh inside of the tube glass.
 > Sometimes the coating will be there, but the tube will still
 > give full rated power.
 >
 >
 > >I do not know what should get red in this tube.
 >
 >
 > In the middle of the inside of the tube is the cylindrical plate.
 > It's the main thing you see inside the tube.
 > This plate can get red at very high power.  If the plate is
 > graphite, then it's not supposed to run red.  If the plate
 > is sheet metal then it is OK to be red.  The redness is
 > from heating from bombardment by electrons.  If the plate
 > gets red, it can mean the various things.  If the plate
 > doesn't get red it can mean various things too.  Preferably
 > it means the tube is processing a lot of power.  It's not
 > so much that the plate "should" be red, simply that redness
 > can be a sign of high power operation.  In a normal tube coil,
 > one can always turn down the power some for a shorter spark
 > and the redness will go away.  Whether the tube is red or
 > not can give clues to the coil's operation to an experienced
 > tube coiler.
 >
 >
 > >Well anyway im thinking my secondary has a diameter of 7 cm and my last
 > >primary had a diameter of 17 cm. Im thinking to resize my primary to 11
cm?
 >
 >
 > The photo was difficult to see clearly.  To me it appeared that the
 > primary was twice the diameter of the secondary.  But this does not
 > agree with what you say above so I don't understand.  Can you
 > clarify this issue?  In any case the primary should be twice the
 > diameter of the secondary for a cylinder type primary, for a coil of
 > that size.  Was the feedback coil the same diameter as the primary?
 > Was the feedback coil below or above the primary?
 > Or was the feedback coil wound outside of the primary?
 >
 >
 > >Higher coupling, maybe better sparks?
 >
 >
 > well high coupling is good up to a point, but probably not too
 > critical.
 >
 >
 > >Looks like my tank casp is to smal but we will se.
 >
 >
 > indeed we will.  A too small cap will require the use of a large
 > inductance.  Such a situation will tend to create a high tank
 > impedance.  This will limit the power through the system and
 > keep the spark lengths short unless a higher voltage is used.
 > Of course a higher voltage may destroy the tube.
 >
 >
 > >Well anyway would it help to use samller primary?
 >
 >
 > see my comments above.
 >
 > John
 >
 > >Best Regards
 > >
 > >Kreso Bukvic
 >
 >
 >
 >