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Re: arbors
Original poster: "by way of Terry Fritz <teslalist-at-qwest-dot-net>" <dhmccauley-at-spacecatlighting-dot-com>
Well, seeing you are using some hefty 1/2" G-10, then arbors are out of the
question. If you had a small rinky-dink spark gap, then the arbors may
work, but for anything of some size,
you'll need to make a 4-bolt flange-hub connection or similar.
Dan
> Hi all,
>
> I was thinking about redoing my RSG (maybe make it synchronous
> and upgrade to G-10 and tungsten), anyway I was wondering if a ty-
> pical arbor for attaching an emery wheel to the shaft of a motor would
> suffice as a fastening mechanism for attachment of the RSG disc to
> the shaft of the motor? I've used similar euipment before to accomplish
> this although I have had a bit of trouble with wobble of the disc perpen-
> dicular to the shaft. Is this going to be an ongoing problem with the ar-
> bor type of shaft attachment? I've noticed that many RSGs have a hub
> the has like 4 screws or bolts through the hub. Is this type of hub at-
> tachment required to suppress the annoying disc wobble and if so can
> they be purchased locally or do I have to order them from McMaster-
> Carr or a similar outfit?
>
> Also, I have a decent sized piece of 1/2" G-10 and have already drilled
holes
> for the shaft and the rotory electrodes. My problem is that I need to
> cut the disc out and I don't have any decent machining facilities (only
> basic tools) so I'm figuring on having to take it a local plastics
fabricator
> and have them cut it out and drill and tap some holes in the outer peri-
> phery of the disc lined up with the electrode holes so I can use
set-screws
> to secure the tungsten flying electrodes. I'm sure this sounds quite ele-
> mentary to many of you but I have only used threaded rods or bolts and
> nuts to hold them in place as flying electrodes in the past, so using
> smooth tungsten rods as flying (and stationary) electrodes is new terri-
> tory to me :^)
>
> Thank you,
> David Rieben
>
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