Re: insulating secondary coils

["Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>]

Original poster: "Dr.Resonance by way of Terry Fritz <teslalist-at-qwest-dot-net>" <resonance-at-jvlnet-dot-com>



C.L.

Dolph's AC-43 is one of the best for magnet wire coils.  Usually 3-4 layers
with a 24 hr. drying time between each application is excellent with this
insulation.  Also, if winding with a magnet wire be sure to use the 200
degree C. wire which has thicker insulation offering best breakdown
properties and resistance to any abrasions while winding.  My opinion:
forget all the epoxies unless they are specifically manufactured for this
special application.  Dolph does make some excellent epoxies for those who
prefer this type but it's just not necessary for the average coil.  Some of
our smaller coils we have run continously for 24 hrs with no breakdown or
tracking when using this insulation --- that's a lifetime for the average
coil builder who runs his coil once or twice every few weeks (or less).

A single layer of clear glyptal works good over the PVC insulated wire
coils.  Avoid multiple layers as it will crack.  A single layer keeps the
moisture molecules from molecular level attachment to the PVC which is very
hygroscopic.  The PVC provides the breakdown insulation.

Again, the creepage is the problem and not the breakdown value of the PVC
which is quite good.  We use only the MIL-D, 3 kV, fine strand PVC insulated
wire for all of our larger coils.

These products are designed for special applications and offer better
performance and better protection than "corona dope" which is usually in
small quantities and expensive.

Dr. Resonance


----- Original Message -----
From: "Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
To: <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
Sent: Monday, January 06, 2003 6:36 PM
Subject: Re: insulating secondary coils


 > Original poster: "Brian by way of Terry Fritz <teslalist-at-qwest-dot-net>"
<ka1bbg-at-webryders-dot-net>
 >
 > Hi, having worked on a few tv's and monitors over the years, Corona dope
 > works, however each layer is awful thin. Its often the red stuff they use
at
 > motor shops on windings as a finnish coat. Basically lacquer based as far
as
 > i know. Model airplane dope works also, but takes a lot more coats than
Poly
 > varnish does and the fumes and the price is not cheap.
 > If you use Envirotex or other 2 part systems, just gotta follow
instructions
 > to the letter. Mixing seems to be the part most beginners fail at. If it
 > says dont use below 60 degrees, then i would want to be at least 70
degrees.
 > you cannot cheat and get away with it. I wind my coils on a lathe with a
 > special set-up so if i loose a coil, it wouldnt be a great loss, but for
 > many it has taken hours to get the wire on right, a bum finnish spoils a
 > lotta good work. cul brian f.
 > ----- Original Message -----
 > From: "Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
 > To: <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
 > Sent: Monday, January 06, 2003 6:58 PM
 > Subject: insulating secondary coils
 >
 >
 >  > Original poster: "Christopher \"CajunCoiler\" Mayeux by way of Terry
Fritz
 > <teslalist-at-qwest-dot-net>" <cajuncoiler-at-cox-dot-net>
 >  >
 >  >
 >  > On the topic of insulating secondary coils, I was reminded
 >  > of a product that I used to see in the electronics catalogs
 >  > a while back, called "corona dope" which was used on the
 >  > 2nd anode connection in television sets.  Does anyone know
 >  > if this product is still around?  And if so, how good would
 >  > it be for insulating/coating secondary coils?
 >  >
 >  > ---
 >  > C.L. Mayeux
 >  > Owner, MSB Data Systems
 >  > http://www.msbdatasystems.tk
 >  >
 >  >
 >  >
 >
 >