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Re: Water absorbtion of Gray PVC - sono tube idea
Original poster: "kayaker" <kayaker-at-sbcglobal-dot-net>
Hello Everyone:-)
I thought I would add my two cents. I've used this fiber-glass repair resin
with good results. It's called Solarez. You work on your coil under a non-UV
light. Expose the coil too sunlight or sun lamp for three minutes. And your
ready. Here is their website: www.solarez-dot-com.
Doug
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
To: <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2003 5:07 PM
Subject: Re: Water absorbtion of Gray PVC - sono tube idea
> Original poster: "pjj" <tha3rdman-at-zoominternet-dot-net>
>
> Watching discovery the other week ( think it was discovery) they had the
> rocket challenge, where the showed how they built the rockets but wrapping
> carbon fiber around a sono tube then curing the carbon fiber, and soaking
> the whole thing in water to remove the cardboard.
>
> Now at first i though cool a carbon fiber secondary form! but then i
though
> carbon humm . . .
>
> At any rate why not wrap the mag wire around a sono tube heavily coat as
> most do with lacquer or enamel, then remove the card board and wa la AN
AIR
> CORE.
>
> Just my ramblings
> Paul
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
> To: <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2003 9:48 AM
> Subject: RE: Water absorbtion of Gray PVC
>
>
> > Original poster: "David Trimmell" <humanb-at-chaoticuniverse-dot-com>
> >
> > Hi, I have to agree with Dan here. In all reality a <3Kw coil can
easily
> > be wound on un-treated PVC with many years (many hours of total run
> > times) of use. I will add, though, that a quick rough up with a coarse
> > sand paper, and then hitting the coil with a heat gun to get it warm
and
> > immediately spraying it with a acrylic sealant, doesn't hurt!
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > David Trimmell
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Tesla list [mailto:tesla-at-pupman-dot-com]
> > Sent: Monday, December 08, 2003 5:09 PM
> > To: tesla-at-pupman-dot-com
> > Subject: RE: Water absorbtion of Gray PVC
> >
> > Original poster: "Mccauley, Daniel H" <daniel.h.mccauley-at-lmco-dot-com>
> >
> >
> > Although your concerns and comments are valid, its really not necessary
> > (especially for the mere hobbyist)
> > to perform this long process of pre-treating a PVC or other hydroscopic
> > forms prior to winding.
> >
> > Although your intent is good, i feel your comments may actually
> > discourage some beginners by making them believe
> > they need to go through this seemingly overwhelming pre-treatment
> > process. This is especially true considering the
> > comments come from the two most experienced tesla coil firms, Resonance
> > Research Corporation and KVA Effects. The beginner
> > may believe these firm's comments may hold more water so to speak than
> > the other people on the group.
> >
> > The important points I think should be made are the following:
> >
> > 1. Yes, hydroscopic secondary forms such as PVC will benefit from a
> > pretreatment process as described below especially
> > in higher power tesla coils (5kW + )
> >
> > 2. For most small power coils, there is no need to pre-treat the PVC
> > secondary. This is based on the experience of many of the members of
> > this list including myself. I'm sure if you took a poll, the number of
> > people on this last that go through the elaborate process of
> > pre-treating a secondary prior to winding will be greatly outweighed by
> > the "just wind it" and go people of the list!
> >
> > Many people on this list will claim sonotube or other cardboard forms
> > are the worst possible material for a secondary form
> > and should be avoided at all costs. However, the best coils i've ever
> > seen were built with cardboard forms.
> >
> > Dan
> >
> >
> >
> > > TCML,
> > >
> > > I have to back Dr. Rez on this one guys... We use PVC and
> > > fiberglass forms.
> > > We have accumulated hundreds of hours of run time on a dozen
> > > or more PVC
> > > coils all above 10kW. We have a really burnt PVC form we keep
> > > in the shop as
> > > a trophy...
> > >
> > > Sand, bake*, seal...
> > >
> > > Sanding breaks up the surface. HV arcs love to travel down
> > > smooth surfaces.
> > > We use coarse grit and leave the final finish rough. After
> > > surface prep and
> > > careful and gradual baking with tungsten strip heater, seal
> > > the PVC with
> > > commercial HV varnish. There's more to the process but those
> > > are the basic
> > > steps hobbyists should follow.
> > >
> > > Will you coil work the same if you don't follow these steps:
> > > sure! Same
> > > applies to O-rings and spray-on foam insulation.
> > >
> > > * don't over do this step. 20 degrees above ambient for two
> > > hours is all
> > > that is necessary IMO. If you use heat lamps, spread them
> > > out, put them on a
> > > variac and don't put them too close. "Hydroscopic" doesn't
> > > mean it's full of
> > > water and you have to dry it out.
> > >
> > > Jeff Parisse
> > > kVA Effects
> > > www.teslacoil-dot-com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > snip...
> > >
> > > All PVC is hygroscopic especially when used at high
> > > frequencies. It's best
> > > to sand interior and exterior, then paint with 3 separate of
> > > Glyptal or
> > > other HV insulation. Interior sanding is rapidly accomplished
> > > by using a
> > > sanding "flapper" on a dowel (or other extender) on an electric
> > drill.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>