Re: House Circuits

["Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>]

Original poster: "by way of Terry Fritz <teslalist-at-qwest-dot-net>" <Mddeming-at-aol-dot-com>

In a message dated 4/29/03 10:43:00 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
tesla-at-pupman-dot-com writes:


>   But here
>is the clincher... I tapped into the main box AT the main input to the
>fuse system of the house... ( in other words... there is a direct feed from
>the mains to the shop) But ...  I do have a 70A breaker in the shop in case
>the system goes to ground or fault ( so I am protected in that sence)
>...  but then again I am pulling 60+ amps for the T coil too ;) if the
>wires between the main box and shop short ....   HOLY MOLY we got a show to
>watch  ;)
>
>I think the resistance of the #4 is limiting the current to the shop
>tho...  doubt I'll ever get more than 75A to the shop....
>
>
>Scot D


Hi Scott,

        If you do not have a breaker on those lines to the shop WITHIN 5ft 
of the meter, I believe you are in violation of NEC and a fire will not be 
covered by your homeowner's insurance. I put a small sub-box next to my 
main breaker panel with a 100A breaker and then ran 30 ft to garage where I 
have another grounded box to supply my toys:
1) 50A -at-120V for Big NST Farm
2) 30A -at- 240 V for Pole Pig
3) 30A -at- 120 V for Medium TC or JL
4) 20A -at- 120 V X 2 for lights, space heater and instrumentation.

I also use twist-lock cords and receptacles on everything above 20A. IMO, 
the extra bucks is worth the peace of mind.

Matt D.