Re: SRSG questions

["Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>]

Original poster: "Finn Hammer by way of Terry Fritz <teslalist-at-qwest-dot-net>" <f-h-at-c.dk>

Chris,

Start the motor up with the disk attached, and preferably with the
moving electrodes installed, using a variac and an analogous
amperemeter.

As the motor gains speed, the meter is going to show variations in
current draw, this will be accompanied by sound from the motor. This
behaviour is called hunting. You will recognize it immediately when you
see/hear it. Increasing the voltage should produce the effect that the
variation finally stops, and a steady current draw results. This means
that the rotor has locked to the rotating field. It has become
syncronous. If it does not lock in, take more off the armature. If you
take too much off, don`t dispare, you just have to run it at a lower
voltage, which means that the gap is going to need it`s own variac.

Cheers, Finn Hammer

Tesla list skriver:
 >
 > Original poster: "Zagarus Rashkae by way of Terry Fritz 
<teslalist-at-qwest-dot-net>" <arbitrarily_random-at-yahoo-dot-com>
 >
 >  >  > Trouble is, I'm stuck with a brand new 1/2 HP GE
 >  >  > induction motor... and I want to make it
 >  > synchronous.
 >  >  > I will see if I can obtain an angle grinder (for
 >  >  > ARSGs) for a reasonable price though.
 >  >  >
 >  >  > Chris
 >  >  >
 >  >
 >  > Oh I see.  Anyways, Grainger has some nice universal
 >  > motors, ranging from
 >  > small to about 1 HP in size.
 >  >
 >  > The Captain
 >
 > Well... I just milled some flats in the rotor and now
 > I don't know if it's synchronous. I'm pretty sure it
 > is, but how can I check for sure? Also, is a .8-.9
 > inch flat enough for a rotor 2-2.5 inches in diameter?
 > I'm running at 3600 RPM.
 >
 > Thanks,
 >
 > Chris
 >
 > _