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Re: Spark gap
Original poster: "Terry Fritz" <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>
Hi John,
I think we have all asked this question at one time or another. "I" even
made a gap like this "once". ;-)
At 10:10 PM 9/1/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi everyone,
>
>This is only my third post, and I appreciate everyone taking the time to
>answer what may seem to be trivial questions. Here's another one: I've
>been hitting all of the sites and the archives concerning rsg's, and I was
>wondering why a gap couldn't be constructed using only two stationary
>electrodes and having small holes drilled in the disc to control firing
>times.
You can "make" a gap like this (I did). Making it "work" is the problem :o))
>Wouldn't this help to alleviate problems concerning arcs following
>the electrodes on a standard rotary disc, as well as having very precise
>control over quenching?
For quenching, the gap only moves a fraction of an inch in the say 0.00005
seconds a coil may need to quench (about 5 degrees). The disk looks fast
to us, but for quenching, it is as slow as molasses.
>I'm sure there's a suitable material that could
>handle the high heat as the arc passes thru the holes without eroding it.
No! There really isn't!! :-)) The arc is about as hot as a plasma torch.
I don't know how hot that is... Google comes up with a few sites that say
21,000F!! or 11650C :
http://www.vriffx-dot-com/peps/technical/plasma%20torch.htm
Our gaps probably are not that good but the highest melting point material
is... Carbon at 3550C. Tungsten boils at 5930C :
http://www.t30.physik.tu-muenchen.de/lehrstuehle/T32/matpack/html/Nuclear/El
ements/meltboilC.html
So a plasma torch is twice the boiling point of tungsten... Our normal
gaps are a little lucky in that the highest heat is in the center of the
arc. The tungsten tips see the "cold" part of the arc ;-)
In my gap, the blades were made of plastic :o)) The arc sliced them right
off... Some ceramics may have a chance of lasting a "little while". But
they may shatter under the intense point heat.
>Also a suggestion for those building gaps with tungsten rods-would it help
>to use brass air brake fittings to hold your rods in place? They can be had
>with pipe thread on one end (easy enough to thread your stationary gap
>blocks on your rsg for these), plus the compression ferrule on the other end
>would allow uniform clamping force all the way around, and if not overly
>tightened can be loosened and the rod slid in our out to make adjustments to
>gap width or compensate for wear. They come in sizes from 1/8" up. Just a
>thought.
That sounds like a good idea!! Are the fitting expensive and where do you
get them?
Cheers,
Terry
>
>Thanks,
>John Richardson
>