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Re: Aluminum duct material for toroids
Original poster: "Nick Andrews by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>" <nicothefabulous-at-hotmail-dot-com>
When I was installing pellet and gas stoves and fireplace inserts, we used
several types of flex, both aluminum and stainless, depending on
application. We used a lot of 3" and 4" flex, but also got 8" and 10" for
wood inserts. The stainless is a lot stiffer to work with, but doesn't dent
as easily. We bought it in big rolls like 50 or 100 feet. Try a local
fireplace/stove store and see what kind of price they will give you, they
may have scrap pieces laying around that are too short to use, but would
work for a toroid...
Nick Andrews
Littleton, CO
>From: "Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
>To: tesla-at-pupman-dot-com
>Subject: Re: Aluminum duct material for toroids
>Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 07:11:43 -0600
>
>Original poster: "by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>"
><Parpp807-at-aol-dot-com>
>
>In a message dated 9/7/02 8:12:55 PM Central Daylight Time, Par pp 807
>writes:
>
>Hi Ed,
>
>I am posting some recent correspondence on the subject of toroid
>construction.
>I think it addresses many of your Qs. I hope you find this helpful.
>
>Happy day,
>Ralph Zekelman
>
> > Hi Scott,
> >
> > Pictures at:
> > http://hot-streamer-dot-com/temp/RalphsCoil/
> > Pics include the good, the bad and the "this was thrown out." :-(
> >
> > Enter the 5525K37 into the McMC search and it will take you to the
>center
> > of the category. Yes, this stuff is seamless. The flex-lok type is made
>of
>an
> > aluminum strip
> > around three inches wide. It is wound into a spiral and the seam is
>crimped
> > together.
> > My first effort at making a 4 x - toroid used this stuff. As you say,
>it's
> > no good. The
> > Al is like a thin foil. When I tried to pull it into shape the crimped
>seams
> > just came apart. I made one toroid and threw it out. John Freau uses the
>flex-
> > lok as do most coilers. John makes a very nice toroid with the FL, but
>he
>has
> > skill. Maybe with
> > a little practice I could get improved results but the stuff I use is
>much
> > superior
> > to the FL. It is of a heavier gauge and it is seamless. It's pricier
>but
>it'
> > s worth it.
> > I work it by stretching out the 2.5 ft length to the length of the 8
>foot
> > bench. I then
> > bend it into a near circle and fasten the ends. Warning: do not cut the
> > piece; keep it
> > full. Use one 2.5 ft section per toroid. The ducting is accordion
>pleated
> > and wound in a spiral. I would like to know how it's manufactured. On my
> > first toroid, I did cut the 2.5 foot section to make two toroids. The
>picture
> > with the aluminum foil covering the seam says it all. Things get messy
>if
>you
> > cut that edge. The uncut
> > piece will give you two-flush fitting edges that will produce an
>invisible
> > seam.
> > You can work the ducting to the desired diameter simply by squeezing
>the
> > pleats
> > back together until you get the correct size. The heavier gauge Al is
>easier
> > to work
> > without putting a bunch of dents into it. Stainless is too stiff to
>work
> > with.
> >
> > I hope this helps. If you try what I am suggesting, please let me know
>what
> > happens.
> >
> > Happy day,
> > Ralph
> >
> > > In a recent posting to the Tesla list, you mention that the
>McMaster-Carr
> > #
> > > 5525K37 duct is "seamless", and easier to work with than the
>Flex-Lock
> > type
> > > duct. Are you sure that both of these types of ducting are not made
>from
>a
> >
> > > single strip of aluminum, coiled in a helix with some sort of seam?
>Can
> > you
> > > describe the differences between the two types of duct material, or
> > provide a
> > > photo of each? I need to fabricate some small toroids for a magnifier
> > system
> > > and would like to know what the options are. So far, I have used the
>very
> > > thin-gage convoluted duct material from Home Depot, which I think is
>the
> > Flex-
> > > Lock type. It's so delicate that no matter how carefully the toroids
>are
> > > handled, they pick up small dents & dings & soon look pretty ratty.I
>have
> > > also tried the convoluted stainless steel duct material used for
>re-lining
> >
> > > chimneys, but its so stiff that the bend radius is impossibly large.
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > > Scott Hanson
> > >
> >