Re: Attaching Tungsten Electrodes to Rotor etc...

["Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>]

Original poster: "BunnyKiller by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>" <bigfoo39-at-telocity-dot-com>

Tesla list wrote:

>Original poster: "Mccauley, Daniel H by way of Terry Fritz
<twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>" <daniel.h.mccauley-at-lmco-dot-com>
>
>
>
>	I'm building a SRSG using one of D.C. Cox's synch motors.
>
>	Just had a few questions:
>
>	I'm going to be using a 7" dia., 1/4" thick LE Gastrolite (Phenolic)
>disc for the rotor.
>	My questions are as following:
>
>	1.  For the aluminum conductive ring on the outside of the rotor,
>what thickness works best, what aluminum alloy works best, and whats the
>best way to attach this to the rotor.
>
>	2.  I've chosen to use 1/8" thick thoriated tungsten rods which are
>available at McMaster-Carr.  The only thing, is what is the best way to
>attach these to the rotor and to the other stationary electrode support.  I
>know that tungsten is a b**** to machine - should i attempt to use a die to
>thread these rods and attach via nuts????
>
>	Any help appreciated.
>
>	I realize i've been asking a lot of questions so far, and I want to
>thank all of you for all your help!!!!!!!
>	Much appreciated!!!!
>
>	Dan M.
>
>
>
>
>
Hi Dan...

forget about threading tungsten   .......   get some 1/4-20  or 5/16-18 
button head socket screws and double nut them, place in vise or in drill 
press and drill the center of them out ( drill hole one size larger than 
tungsten rod, slightly squeeze  the bolt in a vise near the end of the 
bolt to make hole in bolt oval and then press rod into hole ) if you get 
different lengths of tungsten sticking out of the bolt, grind off excess 
on grinding wheel ( use dust mask) untill all are same length.

remember ... tungsten is brittle you may want to make 2 sets just in case...


Scot D