Re: Grounding pigs

["Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>]

Original poster: "Barton B. Anderson by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>" <tesla123-at-pacbell-dot-net>

Hi David - 

Why "must" you remove the strap? There is still 240 across the 2 internal low
voltage windings even with ground at the center tap. Same voltage across, same
inductance across, same current, same output. In the event that the 2 low
voltage windings are paralleled, then you have a condition where you would only
allow 120v from the center tap to one of the end windings. But even in this
case, neutral would go to the center tap and could be tied to ground. In either
case, I don't see why the strap "must" be removed. Maybe I'm missing something?


Take care, 
Bart 

Tesla list wrote: 
>
> Original poster: "by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>"
> <Tesla729-at-cs-dot-com> 
>
> In a message dated 2/14/02 4:19:25 PM Pacific Standard Time, tesla-at-pupman-dot-com
>
> writes: 
>
> << 
>  So, what is better? To have the strap connected, or disconnected? I've got 
>  one of these too :) 
>   
>   
>   
>   
>
>  Christopher "Duck" Boden Geek#1 >> 
>
> Hi, Duck, 
>
> If you want to run your pig on 240 volts as opposed to 120 volts, 
> you MUST remove the strap. A typical pole pig actually has (2) 
> identical secondary (primary for coiling purposes) coils that are 
> center-tapped at the center LV terminal and the strap, if so 
> equipped. Normally the two low voltage windings are internally wired 
> in series, so each of the 120 volt windings in series equal  to 240 
> volts. However, they can rewired to be in parallel so you can 
> run your pig on 120 volts and, in this case, you could leave the 
> "strap" in place as a center-tap ground. Remember that you 
> must also double the input current that would be required if 
> running on 240 volts and I don't think most coilers fancy the 
> idea of running a special 120 volt service capable of >100 amps :-) 
>
> Coiling in Memphis, 
> David Rieben