Re: sync motor wiring question

["Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>]

Original poster: "Dave Lewis by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>" <hvdave-at-earthlink-dot-net>

John,

I have a similar motor but not exactly what you have.   My motor has three
windings
and six wires.   It is configurable for both 120V and 240V.   The hook up is as
follows:

   Line ---o---------------------Red------3
                !                                               3     51 Ohm
  Line --o--!-------------------Grn------- 3
             !    !
              !    o-----------------Wht------- 3
               !    !                                            3   51 Ohm
                o--!-----------------Blk--------3
                 !   !
                  !   !-----CAP-------Yel-------3
                   !                                            3    121 Ohm
                    !------------------Blu------- 3

 To run in 240V I would have to series hook the R-G and W-B windings.

Regarding your motor, I'm no expert but I would fathom a gusess from your
data you
have something like this


    Blk------3                       Yel------ 3
                  3    210                             3   91
    Wht-----3--------------------------3
                  3   210                              3   180
    Red-----3                      Blu------- 3


If you have a variac, I recommend experimenting a little to decipher the
correct
hookup.  That how I figured mine out.

It looks like the Blk-Wht-Red winding is probably your 120V power winding
and the
Yel-Blu winding is the phase shifted one that gives the rotor a push.  Here are
some options I would try:

(1) Line across Blk and Wht.   Red Open.   Cap across Yel and Blu.
(2) Line across Blk-Red (shorted) and Wht.  Cap across Yel and Blu

If those don't work then you will probably have hook the cap from the line to
either Yel or Blu.   It looks like hooking up either Yel or Blu to Wht is not a
good idea since you would be shorting a winding out,  assuming my schematic is
correct.   Another possiblity is connecting Blu up to the line with the cap
across
Yel and Blu.   Actually there are lots of possiblities aren't there which
is why
you wrote your post the the list.   Sorry I cant be more help.

Regarding using a hysterisis motor for your SRSG, my gap works very well
with this
kind of motor.   The big hassle is getting the phase adjusted.   I worked
around
this problem by flicking the AC off momentarily with a switch while
monitoring my
NST output on the scope.   I set my variac as low as possible, just enough
to get a
small spark at the gap.   With enough flicks I eventually will get the
phase right
on.

I will soon build a variable LC input filter for the motor to do the fine phase
adjustments and give my wrist a break.   A strobe would be nice too, I'll
put that
on my christmas list..

Post back with your results.  I'd like to hear how you get it hooked up.

Good Luck
Dave Lewis


Tesla list wrote:

> Original poster: "by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>"
<FutureT-at-aol-dot-com>
>
> All,
>
> I have a hysteresis sync motor here that I'm not sure how to
> wire up.  I realize that these motors always start in a different
> phase position and are not good for sync rotary gaps.  Nevertheless,
> I want to do some tests.
>
> The motor is made by Siemon Mgf Company, of Wayne ILL.
> The motor is rather old.  I didn't try contacting the company.
>
> Part # 8274, serial # 122, 115VAC, 60 cycle, 0.4Amp, single
> phase.  It uses a 3.5uF run cap.
>
> The motor has 5 wires, none of which are a ground wire.
> I measured the resistances between pairs:
>                         ohms
> white to yellow = 91
> white to black    210
> white to red       210
> white to blue      180
> yellow to black    300
> yellow to red       301
> yellow to blue      270
> black to red        425
> black to blue       390
> red to blue          390
>
> Maybe it's a two speed motor?  The label mentions nothing
> about speed.  Anyone have any idea how to wire this up?
>
> Thanks,
> John