Blown spark gap idea (a reverse sucker gap?)

["Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>]

Original poster: "Pete Komen by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>" <pkomen-at-zianet-dot-com>

Here's an idea for a blown spark gap similar to the sucker gap but
pressurized.

Connect three 1 1/2 inch PVC Tees together by the cross bars, the end of
each outside T will have an adapter to 1" female pipe thread.  Into each of
those goes a 1" male pipe thread to 3/4 inch sweat copper fitting with the
bump inside ground out so that 3/4 inch pipe slides through.  On each of the
two pieces of 3/4 inch copper pipe solder a 3/4" x 1" flush bushing (nicely
rounded on the spark end).  These go into the copper fitting mentioned above
before the fitting is screwed into the PVC fitting in the T.  The outside T
stems go to the air supply (two Ts may not be needed, maybe a coupling and
supply air from one end?  I like the symmetry of air flowing from both
ends).  The center T should have a removable cap to allow setting and
observing the spark gap in operation (maybe a clear or welder's glass
window?).  If you use an old vacuum cleaner for suction, just hook the hose
to the output to supply pressure.  Drill holes in the center T for trigger
electrodes.

A cheaper alternative is to use a cross or even a single T.  The air would
blow in from the side.  If half the input was blocked, a vortex could be
created.  Create the right openings and etcetera, it could whistle.  Just
what we need, a whistling spark gap.  ;-)

Advantages:
More pressure than the sucker gap (assuming more pressure is good).
High airflow for cooling (sucker gap is same way).
Gap is enclosed so there is no need to worry about the UV (the PVC will
light up from the inside and deteriorate over time.  I have a PVC cover on
my sucker gap that glows under use).
The whole edge of the pipe(or flush bushing) will spark (sparks are not
concentrated in one spot).

Yet another project to try.

Pete Komen     In the valley of the Rio Grande.