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RE: First light for an old coiler



Original poster: "Dave Kyle by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>" <dave-at-kyleusa-dot-com>

Follow up to my previous posting. As you may recall from my earlier post the
16 inch high test secondary was severely over-coupled leading to serious
dancing arcs across the surface of the secondary. Happily the 36 inch
secondary coil in exactly the same configuration shows none of this
behavior. With no tuning or adjustment I achieved 21 inch arcs to a grounded
object and 12 inch breakout was seen on the toroid. I am hoping to double
this with tuning and higher power settings.

I do need some advice on setting my SRSG up. During my very short test
firing with the SRSG I opened the static gap to about an inch and the static
gap still fires continuously. Although I could see the SRSG was firing as
well, I am assuming the SRSG is not yet correctly phased. The SRSG has a
total gap of about .25 inches so it should present a much lower resistance
when the electrodes line up. When the SRSG is correctly phased will the
static gap cease firing? What is the suggested gap distance for a static gap
in parallel to the SRSG?

Coil Specifications:
20 amp Variac
3 x 15 KV at 30 ma Transco transformers
140 uf PFC capacitors
Standard neon protection circuit (RC with grounded saftey gap - less MOVs)
1800 RPM SRSG using four .095 inch Thoriated Tungsten electrodes with a
static gap in parallel
.03 uf at 70 KV Maxwell capacitor bank
13 turns .25 copper tubing primary currently taped at turn 9
6 inch PVC with 36 inches of #22 wire secondary
24 inch spun aluminum toroid

Note regarding the coil winding and coating. The coil came together in less
than an hour with my manual winding jig. I cannot say coating was as easy;
in fact is was an aesthetic disaster. Having successfully use spray
polyurethane on the test coil I was determined to get a thicker coating on
the new coil and attempted painting the coil with exterior polyurethane
while the coil was still mounted on the winding jig. At first everything
seem great but I soon found without continuously turning the coil in the jig
I had a serious drip problem. The net result was a very bumpy coating which
fortunately has no impact on performance. In hindsight I think a rotisserie
motor (or similar slow motor) would permit a dripless even coating.

Dave


=========================================
Dave Kyle
Austin, TX USA
Email: dave-at-kyleusa-dot-com