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Re: primary tap construction
Original poster: "Gregory Hunter by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-uswest-dot-net>" <ghunter31014-at-yahoo-dot-com>
Atlanta coiler Adam Minchey showed me a pretty neat
trick. He uses a buss fuse holder as a primary clip.
It is just the right size and tension to snap over
1/4" copper tube. I also made a tap from a short
chunk of copper tube. I flattened one end of it in a
vice and then used a hammer to form it around a 1/4"
drill bit. This made a stiff, flat hook that fit
snugly over the tube. I used a sheet metal screw to
clamp it in place. Of course, it is harder to move
than the fuse clip, but it's OK for a semi-permanent
connection that doesn't get moved very often.
I tried using 1/4" Cu tube for all my connections on
my 4" x 24" coil, and found it rather inconvenient for
experimenting. The rigid leads make it tough to swap
gaps, caps, etc.. Again, if you plan on leaving the
coil as-is for a few months at a time, it's an
excellent option. One good thing about Cu tube wiring
is that it doesn't move around. It stays where you
put it, reducing the risk of accidental short
--- Tesla list <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com> wrote:
> Original poster: "Bill Vanyo by way of Terry Fritz
> <twftesla-at-uswest-dot-net>" <vanyo-at-echoes-dot-net>
> I can't seem to figure out a way to build a good
> solid primary tap
> connection that isn't so bulky as to nearly short
> the 1/4" gap between
> turns. How heavy does the tap need to be? It seems
> silly (to my
> limited intuition - this is my first coil) to have
> some skimpy clip
> device on such a heavy coil (1/4" tubing). Also,
> how heavy should the
> wire that leads to the tap be? If possible, would
> it be OK to just use
> 1/4" copper tubing for the whole circuit, i.e.
> primary to cap, cap to
> spark gap, and spark gap to primary tap, all the
> same 1/4" tubing?
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