RE: Neon xmf

["Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>]

Original poster: "Lau, Gary by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-uswest-dot-net>" <Gary.Lau-at-compaq-dot-com>

I also had the misfortune to break the NST secondary wire during my
unpotting procedure.  It wasn't too hard to find the end under the outermost
layer of paper.  But since the wire was so fine, there is no need to attach
it to anything so large as #12 wire.  I soldered the end to a piece of #30
wire-wrap wire (which is huge in comparison to the thinner-still NST wire),
then that to the ceramic insulator terminal.  Having a small 30 gauge wire
made it much less mechanically stressful on the connection.

Gary Lau
Waltham, MA USA


Original poster: "default by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-uswest-dot-net>"
<moya-at-primus.ca>

I de-tared my first neon xmf - And paid careful attention to the clips
on the ceramic terminal - However I should of cut the lead first but I
did not - "Yep I pulled the HV lead out of the coil" (my fault)... - So
now I have to attach a new lead - What I have decided is to give up 3/4
of the last turn on each secondary and carefully split the insulating
paper to expose the windings - Success!! -  I have tucked a 12# stranded
(spread out to cover the hole width of the winding) - I have taped and
hot glued the the wire in place but would like know if there is any
other method that might be more rigid then tape

I tried to solder my new lead but no success (I guess not the wire is
coated but that occurred to my after the fact) - Then I tried epoxy
looked good seemed rigid but did not work

So as it is my xmf (12kv 30 ma w/ 05 shunts removed) is back together
and working but if there is an alternative means of connecting a new
lead that is more rigid, then I will pursue it.

Thanks (for feed back)

Tom