RE: Working with Plexiglas

["Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>]

Original poster: "terry oxandale by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>" <toxandale-at-cei-dot-net>

I made two round discs using Lexan by drilling and tapping a 1/4" hole in
the table of my table saw,  6" from the edge of a 40 tooth carbide blade (a
line from this hole to the blade was parallel and directly over the axis of
the blade). Then I screwed a short 1/4" bolt into the tapped hole in the
table as it passed through a 1/4" hole in the middle of the Lexan sheet
(this bolt was the axis about which the Lexan sheet will be rotated, and was
just tight enough to allow rotation of the Lexan sheet, but not so loose as
to allow any play). Then as I rotated the Lexan sheet about this 1/4" bolt
axle while lying on the flat table, I slowly raised the spinning saw blade
up incrementally to make ever increasingly deeper cuts into the Lexan as it
itself was being rotated. Within just a few minutes, I had a perfectly round
12" disc. I then opened up the center hole to match the arbor I was using on
the RSG motor shaft. The blade must not be raised hurriedly, as the
characteristics of the cut is not a thin line, but a wedge that is only flat
on the disc side, and tapered on the other side of the blade. And this wedge
gets wider the smaller you make the disc. So this work must be done
patiently. It works quite well with other materials too, but I have not used
Plexiglas, and would most likely not, being it's brittle characteristics.

(Un) Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: Tesla list [mailto:tesla-at-pupman-dot-com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2001 8:33 AM
To: tesla-at-pupman-dot-com
Subject: Re: Working with Plexiglas

Original poster: "Luc by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>"
<ludev-at-videotron.ca>

Hi Greg

If I want a strait cut I use a really sharp carbite blade with
many tooth and I push the plexi fast. I never try it but if you
want a curve cut you need a jigsaw but try the old machinist
trick just 2 tooth is need on the thickness of the material when
you cut; for 1/4", 8 tooth by inch on your blade, sharp tooth,
this way you will go fast and the plexi do not have the time to
melt. If you have to much problem try liquid coolant ( put a
track of pure water on the line you cut or maybe soapy water ) a
little sanding that's it. I saw before a guy use a propane torch
to finish the edge like a mirror, I try it but don't have a good
result It's probably take a lot of practice.

Hop I could help,
Cheers,

Luc Benard

Tesla list wrote:
>
> Original poster: "Gregory Hunter by way of Terry Fritz
<twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>" <ghunter31014-at-yahoo-dot-com>
>
> Dear List,
>
> I sometimes use Plexiglas for Tesla coil components,
> but I still haven't figured out how to work the stuff.
>  When I saw it with an electric jigsaw, the cut tends
> to fuse back together after the blade has passed.
> When I finally do get the stuff cut, I have a rough
> edge that defies my best efforts to smooth & polish
> it.  What's the secret to cutting Plexiglas sheet?
> How do I get a professional-looking finish on the
> edges?  What's the best glue to use with it?  How do I
> use power tools on it without melting it?
>
> If the explanations get really long, or get into
> subjects not of general interest to TC builders,
> kindly reply off-list.
>
> Regards,
>
> Greg
> http://hot-streamer-dot-com/greg
>
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