RE: SG copper pipe trick

["Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>]

Original poster: "Ted Rosenberg by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>" <Ted.Rosenberg-at-radioshack-dot-com>

Mike: No arguement that the heavy brass would make a great self heat sinking
setup. and for those who dont have a lathe, you could chuck them in a high
speed motor (like a radial arm saw but the other side) and hold a file to
the edge.

But it's the corrosion that is my hangup. Sure, I'll have to add a fan. 
But no matter if it's usage for 2 or 4 hours, using that coil in a haunted
house where flossing is a show stopper, cannot be tolerated. That is why I
am totally re-doing the SG. Believe me, it's not for fun. I could easily do
without the extra time to build it and the extra money it is costing.
But with some assistive input from Luc Bernard, Marc Metlika and Michael
Tandy, I think I'll have a winner.
When it is built and running, I will post all the details and get a photo on
my web site too.
I really think that carbide rules!

Safety First

Ted 

-----Original Message-----
From: Tesla list [mailto:tesla-at-pupman-dot-com]
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2001 8:56 AM
To: tesla-at-pupman-dot-com
Subject: Re: SG copper pipe trick


Original poster: "Mike Novak by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>"
<acmnovak-at-email.msn-dot-com>

Wanna know how to make a really cool looking gap with good performance? Try
getting a hold of some feet of brass rod 1/2"-1" in diameter. Cut them and
face them on a lathe, then round the edges. They work (and look) really
slick. They rarely need sanding, maybe once every four hours of runtime
(quite a bit). Also, they can hold alot of heat... without melting!
My unit uses two oak boards with grooves cut across the grain with a dado
blade to hold the electrodes perfectly parallel.

Ciao!

-Mike Novak



----- Original Message -----
From: "Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
To: <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2001 7:47 PM
Subject: Re: SG copper pipe trick


> Original poster: "brian by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>"
<ka1bbg1-at-mcttelecom-dot-com>
>
> Hi, well my TCBOR gap needs a flossing with sandpaper fairly often. ted
also
> found that to be a needed maintenance routine at the haunted house. it
does
> help especially if its been run a while then clean it and you see a big
> difference. cul brian f.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
> To: <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
> Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2001 1:42 PM
> Subject: Re: SG copper pipe trick
>
>
> > Original poster: "Ed Phillips by way of Terry Fritz
<twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>"
> <evp-at-pacbell-dot-net>
> >
> > Tesla list wrote:
> > >
> > > Original poster: "by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>"
> > <Parpp807-at-aol-dot-com>
> > >
> > > Jim, Luc,
> > > Maybe I have tuned in a little late but there is no pipe trick needed.
> > > The sweat-solder copper pipe couplings come in a variety of
> > > sizes and the edges are clean. No tooling needed.
> > >
> > > Cheers,
> > > Ralph Zekelman
> >
> > Not all of the edges are clean!  Just built a gap for my Li'l TC using
> > 1/2" couplings and had to file a bit at the ends, where there was a
> > small ridge.  Easy to do if you chuck em in the lathe, but not hard by
> > hand either.  For some reason, I found that the gap seemed to work
> > better after I cleaned the surface with very fine sandpaper.  It acted
> > as if there was something on the surface that was oxidizing and giving a
> > coarse black deposit.  After sanding the oxidized part is a nice gray
> > and the thing will run for many minutes with no problems.  Haven't had
> > to clean it.
> >
> > Ed
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>