RE: cap material question

["Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>]

Original poster: "Loudner, Godfrey by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>" <gloudner-at-SINTE.EDU>

Hi Will

I know that professional mylar caps can't take the heat generated.
Professional caps pack a lot of capacity in a small space which is not a
good heat sink. When used in a tank circuit, the mylar goes to heck. It
might work well in a homebrew plate cap where you have a lot of surface area
to dissipate heat, especially if you submerge upon oil.

Godfrey Loudner

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Tesla list [SMTP:tesla-at-pupman-dot-com]
> Sent:	Sunday, June 10, 2001 10:20 PM
> To:	tesla-at-pupman-dot-com
> Subject:	cap material question
> 
> Original poster: "Will Daniels by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>"
> <tesla_is_god-at-37-dot-com>
> 
> I know most people use PE as their dielectric but, I was looking through a
> page(http://www.datasync-dot-com/~ignatz/electro/teslacoil/platecap/homadecaps
> .h
> tm) at the dielectric material graph section and I noticed how good
> mylar's
> ratings were.  I know it must have been tried on a cap with a puncture
> voltage of 7500 per mil  and a better dielectric strength than PE.  Has
> anyone used mylar on a cap before?  I looked around and 
> http://www.discount-hydro-dot-com/mylar.asp
> is selling mylar for pretty cheap.  Is this the right stuff?  Mylar seems
> far too good to be true.  If anyone could shed some light on this subject
> I'd appreciate it.
>      Thanks,
>           Will Daniels
> 
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