Re: Undesired "effect" with saltwater caps

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Original poster: "Christopher Boden by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>" <chrisboden-at-hotmail-dot-com>





>Original poster: "Chris by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>" 
><chris-at-atomic-pc-dot-com>
>
>I was looking at that bucket cap setup on your site... I just need to get
>some long necked bottles.

We use ONLY Corona brand longnecks. That way it's a standard :)
And yes, we chose Corona for the name. I get empty bottles by the case from 
a local distributor (this way we don't have to pay the $.10 MI Deposit.)

>
>I took the Snapple bottles, poured some new motor oil on top of the salt
>water, and covered up any sharp
>edges or points on the outsides with several layers of electrical tape.  I
>know elec. tape won't hold up at
>really high voltages, but do you think it will be just enough to prevent
>the arcing? (maybe like 5 layers)
>
>How about dipping the outsides of the bottles in shellac?  I'm trying to
>avoid using the salt water on the
>outside of the bottles, heheh.  Don't want to resort to a big tank o' SW
>just yet.

That's what makes the Group's bucket cap so cool, they're NOT heavy! Because 
12 Corona bottles *just* fit inside, so there's TOTALLY (inside and out) 
less than 3 Gallons of water. So they're NOT heavy, they're designed to be 
100% portable, just don't tip them more than 45Deg.




>
>Another question:  suppose I test a SW cap at room temperature and find it
>to be 740 pF.  Now let's say I
>fire up the tank circuit for 30 seconds.  How much would you guess (it can
>be a very wild guess, now) that
>this capacitance will change??  Enough to require adding / removing a cap?
>Pretend that my SW caps will not
>shatter (I know they might :-0 ).
>
>Chris
>


duck




Christopher A. Boden Geek#1
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