Re: Triggered gap questions

["Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>]

Original poster: "Terry Fritz" <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>

Hi Frank,

I also got a General Motors HEI coil that already has the primary and secondary
wires separated and is not in oil or anything.  This may be the best coil to
use in the long run.  It also makes very high voltages that may compensate for
the far phase positions.

I have cut a few ignition coils apart before and it is a mess compared to just
getting a dry core GM HEI coil (89 5-liter Ford Mustang has the Ford version). 
I also think some of those old coils used PCBs...  And we all know how those
PCBs are going to kills us from the long E-mail threads they produce :-))


BTW - if one is going to the auto parts store, the person behind the counter
may not understand "gimee a Ford coil"...  They want to know the make and model
to finger peck into the keyboard...  Here is the info to give them.

For a plain old can type Ford coil:
67 for Fairlane, 289 engine, standard transmission, 2 barrel carb. - Mine had
about 1/8 inch of metal shavings in the oil every time I changed it.  The $9.99
Wells C819 is the AutoZone version.
73 Ford F-100 pickup 360 CID is another option.  Worth it's weight in rust but
always started...

GM HEI coil:
76 Cadillac Deville 500 cubic inch engine.  Great land tank, 6000 lbs curb
weight, pushed around 18 wheelers... 11MPG. great engine.  Needed three
trannys...  The 83 Eldorado is another option.  Great for totaling out slow
Chevy Sunbirds with that long front clip...  HT4100 engine explodes for no
reason...
The $16.99 Wells C834 is the AutoZone version.

Ford version of HEI coil:
88 Ford Crown Victoria (just like the cops have) cop white, 5 liter V-8.  Zero
maintenance car that will pass any sports car on the road (cause they think
your a cop :-))  That big injected engine would whip them anyway...  I never
bought the coil for it but it will be about $20 because they "look"
expensive...  they do have a much nicer secondary terminal that one can hook
something to.  This may be the best coil but I forget what the input terminals
are like (I would have to remember how to open the hood :-)).  May need odd
connector but maybe spade lugs would work.

Of course, all these coil are sitting there for a song and a hazardous waste
fee at any auto junk yard for those that want to get there hands dirty and have
the right size driver with them...

Cheers,

        Terry


At 12:44 AM 8/2/2001 -0400, you wrote: 


>
>             Being as how there is worry about feed back from the ignition 
> coil.  Woulfnt this be easily solved by opening up the ignition transforer 
> drum (if you have one of the round ones)  removing the coils and seperating 
> the negative lines of the hv coil from the negative of the low voltage in. 
> then drilling a hole in the side of the case and putting a small feed threw 
> insulator in the hole and conecting the insulator to the hv negative feed 
> sealing the whole thing up and connecting a rf ground with a diode to the hv 
> negative then this way the coil in theory should operate normally (maybe with
>
> a prolonged life cause of less heat generation and if by some chance there is
>
> a kick back pulse it would be shunted to the rf ground am i correct?  If im 
> way out of line here im sorry