Scot's spark gap in progress

• To: tesla-at-pupman-dot-com
• Subject: Scot's spark gap in progress
• From: Parpp807-at-aol-dot-com (by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-uswest-dot-net>)
• Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 19:45:50 -0700
• Approved: twftesla-at-uswest-dot-net
• Delivered-To: fixup-tesla-at-pupman-dot-com-at-fixme

Hi Scot, All,
I have been playing around with the layout for the measurements. I am using a 
piece of
0.25-inch acrylic with the paper covering in place to do the layout before I 
risk screwing-up the G-10. As I previously posted, I view the accuracy 
requirement for the parallel ditches as being so critical that I may well 
give the milling job to a machine shop.

The locations for the 8-32 screws can be easily spotted and drilled. Drilling 
just a small hole neatly locates the centerline for the ditch. Now I have a 
question: why do we need the ditch? I drilled several 8-32 holes and screwed 
two of the copper cylinders
down onto the acrylic. The cylinders hold solid to the acrylic and adjusting 
the parallelism
is a cinch. So why go to the trouble of milling that ditch into the G-10?

My Scot Gap will have nine 1.5-inch diam Cu sweat couplings, Five pieces on 
the lower panel, and four pieces mounted to the top panel. From my trial by 
error experiments,
I am now getting the idea that using parallel groves (ditches) to lock the 
coils into parallel
alignment may be just a bit too elegant. Why not just hold the cylinders 
tightly to the
G-10 using the 8-32 screws and use shims or whatever to adjust the 
parallelism?

Help, please.

Happy day,
Ralph Zekelman 

• Prev: Re: toroid question/TC status report
• Next: Re: pulse current transformers
• Index(es):
  • Main
  • Thread