Re: About new gap design

• To: tesla-at-pupman-dot-com
• Subject: Re: About new gap design
• From: "Bunnykiller" <bigfoo39-at-idt-dot-net> (by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-uswest-dot-net>)
• Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2000 07:01:08 -0700
• Approved: twftesla-at-uswest-dot-net
• Delivered-To: fixup-tesla-at-pupman-dot-com-at-fixme

Tesla List wrote:
> 
> Original Poster: Parpp807-at-aol-dot-com
> 
> In a message dated 2/19/00 7:13:23 AM Central Standard Time, tesla-at-pupman-dot-com
> writes:
> 
> << and an accurate measuring device
>   >>
> Hi Ed, Scot,
> 
> Scot, I'm gonna start on your gap. As you mentioned previously, it is
> necessary to locate the parallel ditches very very accurately. I plan on
> using a radial saw so I'm looking down on the work. Will very light cuts with
> a 1/2-inch dado cutter work? Will 1/32 of depth be enuff to seat the
> cylinders?  Do you think that will work or should I find a machine shop with
> a good milling machine? It is the inability to lock the spacing without
> changing the gap spacing that makes me unhappy with my eight-piece straight
> gap. In your design the groove spacing is very critical, screwing that up
> will wreck the gap. I am highly impressed with the general design.
> 
> Cheers,
> Ralph Zekelman



Hi Ralph ...

i used 1/4" G10 and cut the "ditch" depth to 3/16" or so...( no more
than 1/8")  the "ditch" width is about 3/16 to 1/4" wide ( even mine
arent perfect ) 

if you have access to a machine shop / overhead mill   then you will be
in great shape as far as accuracy...

if you carefully mark the holes first and drill them ..  you can use
them for reference when milling/cutting


Scot D

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