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Re: Advanced Spark Gap Technology
I ran the spark gap a few times about 1 minute each time then inspected the
washers. I ran the spark gap 2 minutes then 3 minutes and inspected the
washers each time. I could see the spark all around the poly washers but
they never melted or carboned. I ran the spark gap several times over and
over for about 20 minutes. I am running only 750 watts. If the power is
increased its possible that heat could be a problem. It would certanly be
worth expementing to find out. My RQ gap gets hotter when running more
power so it makes sence this will too. The plates could be made larger when
running more power. Larger plates would radiate more heat.
Gary Weaver
At 08:24 AM 2/5/00 -0700, you wrote:
>Original Poster: "Dr. Resonance" <Dr.Resonance-at-next-wave-dot-net>
>
>
>Gary:
>
>Doesn't the spark discharge produce enough heat (even with forced air
>cooling) to start to melt the PE gasket/separators?
>
>I made some similar to this once. I used 3/4 inch dia. brass washers and
>made the insulating spacers of G-10 phenolic which isn't easily effected by
>heat from the spark.
>
>Regards,
>
>Dr. Resonance
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Tesla List <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
>To: tesla-at-pupman-dot-com <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
>Date: Friday, February 04, 2000 10:18 PM
>Subject: Re: Advanced Spark Gap Technology
>
>
>>Original Poster: Dan Kline <ntesla-at-ntesla.csd.sc.edu>
>>
>>At 10:32 PM 2/3/00 -0700, you wrote:
>>>Original Poster: gweaver <gweaver-at-earthlink-dot-net>
>>>
>>>I have been experementing with spark gaps. I made several paper funnels
>to
>>>reduce the area of a box fan and increase the air velocity. I reduced a
>4"
>>>box fan down to 3", 2", 1.75", 1.5" and I checked the air velocity with
>the
>>>air flow meter that I borrowed from work.
>>
>>Which one worked the best?
>>
>>>I built a spark gap using 10 flat copper plates 2" x 2" each. The copper
>>>plates are made from roofing flashing from the lumber yard. I cut the
>>>plates with tin snips and filed the edges smooth. I clamped all the
>plates
>>>together in a stack and drilled a .150 diameter hole threw the entire
>stack
>>>of plates in each corner. 4 places.
>>>
>>>I flattened each copper plate by placing it between 2 blocks of steel 1"
>>>thick 2" square and hitting it with a 2 pound hammer.
>>>
>>>I used 2 paper punches to punch out some .006 mil polyethylene flat
>washers
>>>with a .150 diameter hole in the center. 4 washers in a stack gives me a
>>>.024 space between each plate. I put spacers on all 4 corners. Its all
>held
>>>together with 4 plastic screws with plastic hex nuts on each corner.
>>>
>>>The finished spark gap is about 1/2" thick 2" square with a wire soldered
>on
>>>each outside plate. The spark gap is taped to the end of a paper funnel
>and
>>>the funnel is taped to the end of a box fan.
>>>
>>>I ran this for about 20 minutes on a 750 watt coil and it works better
>than
>>>my RQ gap with the same box fan. The flat copper plates act like a
>radiator
>>>and keep the spark gap cool. The air tends to blow most of the sparks to
>>>the back half of copper plates.
>>>
>>>Its small, compact and easy to build. I think it would be easier to build
>>>if the plates were made out of thicker metal so they won't need to be
>>>flattened. Some 1/16" aluminum plates will probably work fine. Wires can
>>>be attached to stake on terminals and put under the head of the plactic
>>>screw on one plate and another terminal under the hex nut on the other
>plate.
>>
>>I've thought about building gaps like this a lot, especially after reading
>>old articles about building quenched gaps and stuff like that, but I never
>>could think of a spacer that wouldn't end up either conducting, getting a
>>carbon track, or breaking from heat-stress. The old designs used mica as
>>the spacer. But shoot, even if it *did* track, it would be so easy to
>fix...:)
>>I think I'll give this a shot. Could you describe the fan/funnel/gap setup
>>a little more?
>>Thanks,
>>Dan
>>
>>>Gary Weaver
>>
>>
>>
>>
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